Kilt

src: cdn3.volusion.com

A kilt (Scottish Gaelic: fÃÆ'¨ileadh [l fe: l ??] ) is a gamis-type non-bifurcated knee-length skirt, with a fold on the back, which comes from traditional Gaelic men's and boys' clothes in the Scottish Highlands. It was first recorded in the 16th century as a large skirt, full length clothing whose upper part could be worn as a robe. A small skirt or 'modern' skirt appeared in the 18th century, and is basically the bottom of a large skirt. Since the 19th century, it has been linked to a wider Scottish culture, and more extensively to Gaelic or Celtic heritage. Most often made of wool fabric in tartan pattern.

Although skirts are most often worn on formal occasions and in Highland and sporting events, these skirts have also been adapted as men's informal clothing in recent years, returning to their roots as everyday wear. Particularly in North America, kilts are now made for casual wear in various materials. Alternative fasteners can be used and pockets inserted to avoid sporran needs. Kilts has also been adopted as a women's outfit for some sports.

Video Kilt

History

The skirt first appeared as a large skirt, or bonded boxes, during the 16th century, and was The original Gaelic. The filleadh mÃÆ'²r or a big skirt is a full robe whose upper part can be worn when the robe covers the shoulders, or raised on top head. The Scottish Gaelic version of filleadh beag (philibeg), or a small skirt (also known as a walking skirt), is similar to a modern skirt found by a British Quaker from Lancashire named Thomas Rawlinson some time in the 1720s. He feels that the boxes are "cumbrous and unwussy", and the solution is to separate the skirt and turn it into a different outfit with the stitched crease, which he himself begins to wear. His colleague, Iain MacDonnell, head of MacDonnells from Inverness, also started wearing it, and when the second clan working on logging, the manufacture of charcoal and iron smelting saw their heads wearing new clothes, they immediately followed. From there its use spreads "in the shortest space" among the Highlanders, and even among some Northern Lowlanders. It has been suggested there is evidence that filibegs with unused folds have been worn since the 1690s.

Maps Kilt

Variant

The name "kilt" is applied to various clothing:

• Traditional garments, whether in their historical form, or in modern adaptations that are now commonplace in Scotland ( see Skirts History ), usually in tartan patterns
• The skirts worn by the Irish pipe tape are based on traditional Scottish clothing but now in single color (solid)
• The Scottish skirt variant adopted in other Celtic countries, such as Welsh cilt and Cornish cilt

According to the Dictionary of the Scottish Language and Oxford English Dictionary , the noun is derived from the verb to kilt , which originally means "to support; to slip (skirt ) around the body ", which seems to have originated from Scandinavia.

Scotland

Organizations that sanction and assess competition in Highland dancing and piping all have rules governing acceptable clothing for competitors. These rules dictate that kilts should be used (except that in national dance, female competitors will wear Aboyne dresses).

Design and construction

Scottish skirts display the uniqueness of design, construction, and conventions that distinguish them from other clothing according to the general description. This is a customized garment that wraps around the wearer's body at the natural waist (between the lowest rib and hip) from one side (usually left of the wearer), around the front and back and across the front again to the opposite side. The binding consists of a string and a buckle at both ends, an inner rope usually passing through a gap in the waist to bend on the outside; the alternative may remain inside the belt and tied inside.

A skirt covers the body from the waist to the center of the knee. The overlapping layers in front are called "aprons" and flat; a single cloth layer around the sides and back folded. The kilt pin is tied to the front apron in the free corner (but not past the layer below, since its function is to add weight). Clothing may or may not be worn, as the wearer prefers, although tradition says that "true Scotsman" should wear anything under his skirt. However, the Scottish Tartan Government warns that in some circumstances, the practice could be "childish and unhygienic" and fly "in decency".

Fabrics

The typical skirts as seen on the modern Highland game show are made of tweed woven tweed wool. The twill weave used for kilts is "type 2-2", which means that every weft thread goes through and under two warp threads at a time. The result is a typical diagonal-weaving pattern on a cloth called a twill line. Pieces like these, when knitted according to a specific pattern or color pattern written (see below) called tartan. Instead the kilt used by Irish pipers is made of solid colored fabrics, with saffron or green being the most widely used color.

The weight of the weighting cloth is given in ounces per yard and runs from the very heavy, worst-case regiment of 18-22 ounces (510-620 g) to the worst light of about 10-11 ounces (280-310 g). The most common weights for kilts are 13 ounces (370 g) and 16 ounces (450 g). Heavier weights are more appropriate for cooler weather, while lighter weight will tend to be chosen for warmer weather or for active use, such as Highland dance. Some patterns are available in just a few weights.

A typical modern adult skirt uses about 6-8 meters of a single width (about 26-30 inches) or about 3-4 meters of double width tartan fabric (about 54-60 inches). The double-width cloth is woven so that the pattern fits perfectly on the woven edges. Kilt is usually made without hems because the hems will make the garment too big and cause it to hang wrong. The exact amount of fabric required depends on several factors including the size of the setting, the number of folds inserted into the garment, and the size of the person. For a full skirt, 8 meters of fabric will be used regardless of the size and number of folds and the depth of the crease will be adjusted to its size. For a very large waist, it may be necessary to use a 9 meter cloth.

Setts

One of the most distinctive features of authentic Scottish skirts is the tartan pattern, which is sett , it shows. Certain pattern relationships with clans and individual families can be traced back perhaps a century or two. New to the nineteenth century the Victorian era of the so-called known tartans system today began to be recorded and systematically formalized, mostly by weaving companies for trading purposes. Until recently, tartan highlands held regional associations rather than identified with certain clans.

Currently there are also tartan for districts, districts, communities, and companies. There are also sets for states and provinces; schools and universities; sports activities; individual; and a simple and simple warning pattern that anyone can use (see Kilt History for the process in which this association appears.)

Setts are always set horizontally and vertically, never diagonally (except when adapted for women's skirts). They are determined by the number of threads they have, their color sequence and their unit width. For example, Wallace tartan has the number of threads given as "K/4 R32 K32 Y/4" (K is black, R red, and Y is yellow). This means that 4 units of black thread will be replaced by 32 red units, etc., in both warp and weft. Typically, the unit is the actual number of threads, but as long as proportions are maintained, the resulting pattern will be the same. This thread count also includes a pivot point indicated by a slash between the color and the number of threads. Weavers should reverse the weaving sequence at the pivot point to create a mirror image of the pattern. This is called symmetrical tartan. Some tartans, like Buchanan, are asymmetric, which means they have no pivot point. Weavers weave the sequence to completion and then start over again for the next set.

The settings are further characterized by their size, the number of inches (or centimeters) in one full repetition. The specified set size depends not only on the number of threads on the repeat but also the weight of the fabric. This is because the thicker the fabric, the thicker the yarn, and thus the same amount of yarn with the heavier cloth will occupy more space. The colors given in the number of threads are determined as symbols, although the tartan pattern is not heraldic. The exact colors used are a matter of artistic freedom and will vary from one fabric factory to another as well as in a dye to another in the same factory.

Tartan is commercially woven in four standard color variations that describe the overall tone. "Ancient" or "Old" colors may be marked with a slightly faded look intended to mimic vegetable dyes that were once used, although in some cases "Old" only identifies tartan used before the present. Ancient green and blues are brighter while red appears orange. The colors of "modern" are bright and showcased modern aniline dyeing methods. They are bright red, dark green hunters, and usually navy blue. "Rotten" or "Reproduction" colors simulate the appearance of older fabrics perforated by elements. Green turns to light brown, blue becomes gray, and red is the deeper color of wine. The last color variation is "Muffled" which tends toward the earth tone. Olive green vegetables, blue blues, and red are deeper wine colors. This means that of the approximately 3,500 listed tartans available in the Scottish Tartans Authority database in 2004 there were four possible color variations for each, generating an estimated 14,000 tartan options.

Deposits can be registered with the International Tartan Index ITI from the Scottish Tartans Authority (STA) charity organization, which manages a collection of cloth samples characterized by the name and number of threads, free, and/or registered with the Scottish Register of Tartans SRT from the National Archives of Scotland (NAS) legal body, if tartan meets SRT criteria, for UKÃ, Â £ 70 in 2010 Although many tartans are added every year, most of the listed patterns that are available today are made in the 19th century and beyond by commercial weavers that work in a variety of colors. The rise of the Highland romanticism and Anglicisation flourished Scottish culture by Victoria at the time led to registering tartans with clan names. Before that, most of these patterns were more connected to geographical areas than to any clan. Therefore there is nothing symbolic about color, and nothing about the pattern is a reflection of the wearer's status.

Measurement

Although ready-made kilts can be obtained in standard sizes, special skirts are tailored to the individual proportion of the wearer. At least three measurements, waist, hip, and skirt length, are usually required. Sometimes an increase (distance above the waist) or a fall (distance from the waist to the widest part of the hip) is also required.

A properly crafted skirt, when bent over the most tight rope hole, is not so loose that the wearer can easily twist the skirt around their body, not too tightly causing it to "roll over" from the fabric where it is bent. In addition, the length of the skirt when flexed at the waist reaches no point lower than half in the kneecap and not higher than about an inch above it.

Pleating and stitching

A skirt can be folded with a folded box or a knife. The pleat of the knife is a simple fold, while the wiru box is thicker, consisting of two folds of the blade that are back to back. Knife folds are the most common in modern civil kilts. The traditions of the regiment vary. The Argyll and Sutherland Highlanders use a folding box, while the Black Watch makes their kilts from the same tartan with the folds of a knife. These traditions are also inherited to affiliated regiments within the Commonwealth, and retained in substitute battalions for these regiments in the combined Kingdom Regiment of Scotland.

The folds can be arranged relative to the pattern in two ways. In pleating to the stripe , one of the vertical lines on the tartan is selected and the fabric is then folded so that the strip flows in the middle of each pleat. The result is that along the pleated part of the skirt (back and side) the pattern appears differently from the unfolded front, often emphasizing the horizontal band rather than creating a balance between horizontal and vertical. This is often called military pleating because it is a style adopted by many military regiments. It is also widely used by pipe bands.

In pleating to sett , the fabric is folded so that the pattern of the setting is maintained and repeated around the skirt. This is done by taking a complete set in each wiru, or two complete sets if they are small. This causes the pleated part to have the same pattern with the unruly front.

Each fold is characterized by depth and width. Part of the pleat protruding under the upper pleat is the size or width. The width of the fold is selected based on the size of the set and the amount of fabric to be used in building the skirt, and will generally vary from about 1/2 "to about 3/4".

Its depth is part of the folds that are folded beneath the upper folds. It depends solely on the size of the tartan that keeps flat even when folded into the line, because the sett determines the distance from the lines.

The number of folds used in the manufacture of kilts depends on how much material will be used in building the garment and its size.

The creases all over the falls are slightly tapered because the waistband of the wearer is usually narrower than the hips and the folds are usually sewn by machine or hand.

In Highland dance, it is easy to see the effects of stitches on the action of the skirt. The skirt hugged the dancer's body from the waist down to the hip line and, from there, in response to the dancer's movement, she broke down sharply. The way the skirt moves in response to the dance steps is an important part of the dance. If the folds are not sewn in this skirt section, the action, or movement, will be very different.

Accessories

Scottish skirts are usually worn with kilt hoses (wool socks), reversed on knees, often with garter and flashes, and sporran span> (Gaelic for "purse": a type of pouch), which hangs at the waist of a chain or leather strap. It may be plain or embossed, or adorned with marine leather, coat, or polished metal coating.

Other common accessories, depending on the context formalities, include:

• Belt (usually with buckle embossed)
• Jackets (from various traditional designs)
• One kilt pin
• A sgian dubh (Gaelic: "black knife": a sheathed small knife worn at the top of the hose )
• brogues Ghillie
• Sometimes worn with a Ghillie shirt, although this is more casual and, being a relatively modern invention, should not be confused with real historic clothing.

The kilt clothes style

Today most Scottish people consider skirts as official dress or national outfit. Although there are still some people wearing skirts every day, it is generally owned or rented to wear at weddings or other formal events and may be worn by anyone regardless of nationality or heredity. For semi-formal wear, skirts are usually worn with Prince Charlie or Argyll jackets. (Commercial suppliers have now produced jackets that are equivalent to Irish and Welsh themed styles.) Formal is a white tie and requires Doublet Rules or higher.

Kilts is also used for parades by groups such as Boys' Brigade and Scouting, and in many places the kilts look valid in Highland matches and pipe championships as well as worn in Scottish country dances and ceilydhs.

Certain regiments/units from the British Army and other Commonwealth soldiers (including Australia, Canada, New Zealand and South Africa) with Scottish lineage or heritage still continue to use kilts as part of clothing or task uniforms, although they have not been used in combat since 1940. The uniforms in which the skirt is worn include a Ceremonial Dress, Dress Service, and Barrack Gown. Kilts is considered suitable for ceremonial parades, office assignments, less formal parades, walk-outs, messy dinners, and classroom instruction or band practice. Ceremonial kilts have also been developed for the US Marine Corps, and band pipes and drums from the US Military Academy, the US Naval Academy and Norwich University - The Military College of Vermont.

It is not uncommon to see kilts being worn in Irish pubs in the United States, and rarely seen in the workplace. The use of a casual kilt with boots or moccasins lace, and with a T-shirt or golf shirt, becomes increasingly familiar at the Highland Games. This skirt is associated with Scottish national pride and will often be seen worn, along with the peak of football, when members of the Tartan Army are watching football or rugby matches. Small Sinia Dubh knives are sometimes replaced with wood or plastic alternatives or completely removed for security issues: for example, they are not usually allowed to be worn or taken on commercial aircraft.

ireland

Although the origins of Irish skirts continue to be the subject of debate, current evidence suggests that the kilts originated from the Scottish Highlands and Islands and were worn by Irish nationalists From at least 1890 and later cemented from early 1900 as a symbol of Gaelic identity.

The outfit often misinterpreted as a skirt in the early depictions was Irish language lein-croich , a long tunic made traditionally of fabric solid color, with black, saffron and green. The solid colored kilts were first adopted for use by Irish nationalists and subsequently by Irish regiments serving in the British Army, but they were often seen in the late 19th and early 20th centuries in Ireland, especially in political and musical meetings, because skirts -written as a symbol of Gaelic nationalism in Ireland during this period.

In the world of Irish dance, boy kilts have largely been abandoned, especially since the popularity of Riverdance around the world and the revival and interest in Irish dance in general.

Other Celtic countries

Although not a traditional component of national dress outside Scotland, kilts have become popular in other Celtic countries as a sign of Celtic identity. Kilts and tartans can also be seen in Ireland, Wales, Cornwall, Isle of Man, Brittany and Galicia.

There are currently sixteen breton tartans officially listed on the Scottish tartan list. The Breton tartans are: Brittany National (Breton National), Brittany Walking, Lead it Of, and nine tartans county (Kerne, Leon, Tregor, Gwened, Dol, St. Malo, Rennes, Nantes, St. Brieuc). The others were recently made for smaller areas in Brittany (Ushent, Bro Vigoudenn and Menez Du "Black Mountain").

There are two Galician tartans recorded in the Scottish registrars: Galicia and "GallaeciaÃ, - Galician National". There is historical evidence of the use of tartan and skirts in Galicia until the 18th century.

Contemporary design

Contemporary ruins (also known as modern kilts and, especially in the United States, utility kilts) have appeared in the clothing market in Scotland, USA and Canada in a variety of fabrics, including leather, denim, corduroy and cotton. They may be designed for formal or casual wear, for use in sports or outdoor recreation, or as white or blue collar workwear. Some models are modeled on the traditional skirts of Scotland, but others are just similar to dresses like skirts for men. They may have folded boxes, symmetrical knife folds and tied with buttons or velcro rather than buckles. Many are designed to be worn without sporrants, and may have a pocket or belt attached.

In Canada, kilts are very commonly used as part of women's clothing in schools with a uniform policy. In addition, due to the rich Scottish heritage of the country, they may often be seen at weddings and formal events. In Nova Scotia, they can even be worn as ordinary everyday clothes.

In 2008, the USPS mail carrier, Dean Peterson, made an official proposal that the skirt was approved as an acceptable postal uniform - for convenience reasons. The proposal was defeated at a convention of 220,000 members of the National Association of Letter Carriers in 2008 by a large margin.

5.11 Tactical produces Kilt Tactical Task as a result of April Fool's corporate joke. Contemporary hybrid consists of tartan fabric.

Female athletes, especially lacrosse players, often wear kilts during games. They will usually wear compression shorts or spandex underneath. Kilt is very popular among many levels of lacrosse, from youth leagues to college leagues, although some teams are replacing skirts with slimmer athletic skirts.

Male kilt is often seen in popular contemporary media. For example, in the Syfy series, Tin Man, side characters are shown in kilts as farmers' work clothes. Trends in everyday fashion, especially in the Gothic subculture, have led to the popularization of skirts as an alternative to more conventional men's wear. Some of them are made from a mixture of PVC or cotton-polyester.

src: www.usakilts.com

See also

• Kilt history
• Argyle (pattern)
• Checkered boxes
• Check (fabric)
• Fly plaid
• Full box
• Highland dress
• Trends

src: www.kilts.com

References

src: www.usakilts.com

Bibliography

• Trevor-Roper, Hugh; Hobsbawm, Eric; Ranger, Terence, eds. (1983), Invention of Tradition , English: Cambridge University Press, ISBN: 0-521-24645-8 .
• Thomson, Thomas, ed. (1816), Annals of Philosophy , VIII , London: Baldwin, Cradock and Joy

Further reading

• Teall, Gordon; and Smith, Jr., Philip D. (1992). Tartan County . Shepheard-Walwyn (London, United Kingdom). ISBNÃ, 0-85683-085-2.
• Tewksbury, Barbara; Stuehmeyer, Elsie (2001), The Art of Kiltmaking , Rome, NY: Celtic Dragon Press, ISBN: 0-9703751-0-7 .
• Thompson, J. Charles (1979). So You Will Wear a Kilt . Heraldic Art Press (Arlington, VA). ISBNÃ, 0-86228-017-6.

External links

• Scottish Tartan Authority
• Act Against the Highland Shirt
• Kilts and Kilt Settings
• The Scottish High School Clothing Clan from the Metropolitan Museum Art Museum, featuring a range of kilts

Source of the article : Wikipedia