Units of textile measurement

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Textile fibers, yarns, yarns and fabrics are measured in various units.

• Fibers, single filaments of natural materials, such as cotton, linen or wool, or artificial materials such as nylon, polyester, metals or mineral fibers, or manmade cellulosic fibers such as viscose, Capital, Lyocell or other rayon fibers are measured in terms of linear mass density, the weight of the given fiber length. Various units are used to refer to fiber measurements, such as: denier and tex (linear mass density of fibers), super S (fineness of wool fibers), worst number, wool quantity, cotton amount (or English) (Nm) and result (opposite of denier and tex).
• Yarns, fiber rolls used for knitting, weaving or sewing, are measured by the number of cotton and yarn density.
• Threads, usually composed of multiple threads together, produce long and thin strands used in sewing or weaving, measured in units equal to the thread.
• Fabrics, fabrics usually produced by textile fibers weaving, knitting or knotting, yarn or yarn, are measured in units such as momme, thread count (measure of coarseness or fineness of cloth), tip per inch (epi) and opt per inch (ppi ).

Video Units of textile measurement

Unit of measure for fiber

The linear density of a fiber is usually measured in denier or tex units. Traditional units include the worst count, the number of cotton and the results. Tex is more likely to be used in Canada and the Continent of Europe, while denier remains more common in the United States and Britain. International Unit System uses kilogram per meter for linear density; in some contexts, tex units are used instead.

Denier

Denier or den (abbreviated D ), the unit of measure for the linear mass density of fibers, is the mass in grams per 9000 meters of fiber. Denier is based on a natural reference: a single silk strand of about one denier; weighing 9000 meters of silk weighing about one gram. The term denier is derived from the French denier, a small value coin (worth ¹ / ₁₂ sou ). Applied to the yarn, a denier is considered as heavy as ounce (1.2 g). Microdenier describes filaments weighing less than 1 g per 9000 m.

There is a difference between filament and total measurements in deniers. Both are defined as above; but the first corresponds to a fi lm filament (commonly called denier per filament (DPF )), while the second corresponds to a thread.

Broader terms, such as fine can be applied, either because the whole thread is fine or because the fibers in this thread are thin. The 75-denier yarn is considered good although it contains only a few fibers, such as thirty 2.5-denier fibers; but heavier threads, such as 150 denier, are considered fine only if the fibers are individually as thin as denier one.

The following relationships apply to straight and uniform filaments:

DPF = total denier/uniform filament quantity

The denier measurement system is used on two fibers and one filament. Some general calculations are as follows:

In practice, measuring 9000 meters is time consuming and unrealistic. Generally a 900-meter sample is weighed, and the result is multiplied by ten to gain the denier weight.

• Fiber is generally considered a microfiber if it is a denier or less.
• One-denier polyester fibers have a diameter of about ten micrometers.
• In tight pants and pantyhose, the linear density of yarn used in the manufacturing process determines the opacity of articles in the following commercial categories: ultra thin (under 10 denier), thin (10 to 30 denier), semi-opaque (30 to 40 denier ), opaque (40 to 70 denier) and opaque thickness (70 denier or higher).

For a single fiber, instead of weighing, a machine called a vibroscope is used. The known fiber length (usually 20 mm) is set to vibrate, and its fundamental frequency is measured, allowing mass calculations and thus linear density.

Tex

Tex is the unit of measure for the linear mass density of fibers, yarns and threads and is defined as a mass in grams per 1000 meters. The unit code is "tex". The most commonly used unit is decitex (abbreviated dtex ), which is a mass in grams per 10,000 meters. When measuring objects consisting of multiple fibers, the term "filament tex" is sometimes used, refers to a mass in grams per 1000 meters of a filament.

Tex is used to measure fiber sizes in many products, including cigarette filters, optical cables, yarn and fabrics.

Micronaire

Micronaire is a measure of cotton fiber permeability, indication of smoothness and maturity. This is approximately equal to 2.82 times denier. Micronaire affects various aspects of cotton processing.

S or super S

Not the correct unit of measure, S or super S is a refined wool fiber index and is most often seen as a label on wool, wool, and yarn.

Number of Worsted

The wool count (or spinning count) is an indirect measure of the fineness of the fibers in the woolen wool yarn expressed as the amount of 560 yards (512 m) long (hanks) of one pound (0.45 kg) wool yarn of the wool. The smoother the wool, the more threads and the higher the count. It has been largely replaced by direct action.

Yield

Similar to tex and denier, result is a term that helps describe the linear density of the circumference of fibers. However, unlike tex and denier, the result is the inverse of linear density and is usually expressed in yard/lb.

Maps Units of textile measurement

Yarn and thread

Cotton Count

• Ne (English Number) or cotton count is another measure of linear density. This is the number of rolls (840 cm or 770 m) of skein material weighing 1 pound (0.45 kg). Under this system, the higher the number, the smoother the thread. In the United States, the amount of cotton between 1 and 20 is referred to as the crude amount. An ordinary knit T-shirt can be between 20 and 40 counts; fine sheets are usually in the range of 40 to 80 count. This amount is now widely used in the staple fiber industry.
• Hank: long 7 leas or 840 yards (770 m)
• One lea - 120 yards (110 m)

The length of the thread

l /m = 1693 ÃÆ'â € " l _m /Nec ÃÆ'â €" m /kg , where l /m is the length of the thread in meters, l _m /Nec is the number of British cotton and m /kg is the weight of the yarn in kilograms.

The British cotton calculation (Nec) is an indirect calculation system, that is, the higher the number of finer yarns.

• Thread: 54 inches in length (1.4 m) (circumference of winding beam)
• Bundle: typically 10 pounds (4.5 kg)
• Lea: length 80 threads or 120 yards (110 m)

To convert denier to cotton count: l _m /Nec = 5315 / ?/den , where l _m /Nec is the number of cotton and ?/den is density in denier.

To convert tex to cotton: l _m /Nec = 590,5 / < span>?/tex , where l _m /Nec is the number of cotton and ?/tex is the density in tex.

Thread

The yarn is the size of the cotton yarn, equal to 54 inches (1.4 m).

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Fabrics

Mommes

Mommes (mm), traditionally used to measure silk fabrics, weighs in pounds a piece of cloth if it measures 45 inches by 100 yards (1.2 m x 90 m)). One momme = 4.340 g/m²; 8 mommes about 1 ounce per square yard or 35 g/m².

The momme is based on a standard width of silk of 45 inches (1.2 m) wide (although silk is regularly produced in 55 inches (1.4 m) width, and, not commonly, in larger widths).

The usual momme weight range for different silk weaves are:

• Habutai - 5 to 16 mm
• Chiffon - 6 to 8 mm (can be made in double thickness, ie 12 to 16 mm)
• Crepe de Chine - 12 to 16 mm
• Gauze - 3 to 5 mm
• Raw silk - 35 to 40 mm (heavier silk looks more 'hairy')
• Organza - 4 to 6 mm
• Charmeuse - 12 to 30 mm

The higher the weight in mommes, the more resistant the woven, and the more suitable for heavy duty use. And, the heavier the silk, the more opaque. This can vary even among the same type of silk. For example, lightweight translucent charm when used in clothing, but 30-momme charm is opaque.

Number of threads

The number of threads or yarn per inch (TPI) is the size of the roughness or fineness of the fabric. This is measured by counting the number of yarns contained in one square inch of fabric or one square centimeter, including long yarn (warp) and width (feed yarn). The number of threads is the number of strands calculated along two sides (up and down) of square inches, added together. It is used primarily in relation to cotton sheets such as sheets, and has been known for use in towel classifications. There is a common misconception that the number of threads is an important consideration when buying a bed. However, the fabric expert claims that beyond the number of threads 400, there is no difference in quality. The number of threads that can fit into the square inch of fabric is limited, indicating that a bed beyond a 400 count is probably a marketing strategy.

Industry standard

The number of threads is often used as a measure of the quality of the fabric, so the number of standard cotton yarns is about 150 while the good quality sheets start at 180 and the count of 200 or higher is considered percale. Some, but not all, of very high thread counts (typically over 500) tend to be misleading as they usually count individual threads in "put together" threads (threads made by twisting finer threads). For marketing purposes, fabrics with 250 two-ply threads in both vertical and horizontal directions can have component yarn counted for the number of 1000 threads though "according to the National Textile Association (NTA), citing the ASTM international standard group, accepted industry practices are counting each thread as one, even thread spun as a twine or three-layer thread. The Federal Trade Commission in the August 2005 letter to the NTA agrees that consumers 'may be deceived or misled' by the number of inflated threads 2002. ASTM proposes the definition for "thread count" which has been called "the industry's first formal definition for the number of threads". A minority on the ASTM committee argues for the higher number of thread numbers obtained by counting every single thread in the thread tied and cited as the authority of the provisions relating to the woven fabric in Schedule of United States Harmonization Rates , which states the set each layer should be counted as one using "average yarn numbers."

Ends per inch

Ends per inch (EPI or e.p.i.) is the number of limps per inch of woven fabric. In general, the higher the tip per inch, the smoother the fabric. Current mode is to wear T-shirts with higher thread counts, such as a soft and comfortable 30 "single" T-shirt that has 30 threads per inch in contrast to a standard T-shirt with 18 threads per inch.

Tip per inch is very commonly used by weavers who must use the number of ends per inch to select the right of reeds to be woven. The number of ends per inch varies in the pattern to be woven and the thickness of the yarn. How many times a thread can be wrapped around a ruler in a winding adjacent to an inch is called wrapping per inch . The plain weave generally uses half the amount of wraps per inch for the number of ends per inch, while the more densely packed weavings such as the twill weave will use a higher ratio like two thirds of the amount of wraps per inch. Finer threads need more threads per inch than thick ones, and thus produce higher ends per inch.

The number of ends per inch in a piece of woven fabric varies depending on the stage of manufacture. Before the fabric is woven, the weft has a number of edges per inch, which is directly related to the size of the reed used. After weaving, the number of edges per inch will increase, and will increase again after washing. An increase in the number of ends per inch (and up per inch) and shrinkage in fabric sizes is known as take-up . Taking it depends on many factors, including the material and how closely the fabric is woven. Weaving woven fabrics shrink more (and thus the number of edges per inch increases more) than the loosely woven fabric, as do more threads and elastic fibers.

Options per inch

Option per inch/Inches (or p.p.i.) is the number of weft per inch of woven fabric. A pick is a single feed yarn, hence the term. In general, the higher the picks per inch, the smoother the fabric. Air permeability

Air permeability is a measure of the air's ability to pass through a cloth. Air permeability is defined as "the volume of air in cubic centimeters (cm3) passed in one second through 100cm2 of fabric at a pressure difference of 10cm", also known as the Gurley unit.

Factors affecting air permeability include porosity, thickness and fabric construction, yarn density, twist, and wrinkling, layering, and moisture within the fabric.

The concept of air permeability is important for the design of active use and insect webs.

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Quality

Martindale

The Martindale unit quantifies the textile resistance to abrasion when used for coatings.

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References

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Bibliography

• Collier, Ann M (1970), Textile Handbook , Pergamon Press, p.Ã, 258, ISBNÃ, 0 - 08-018057-4 , retrieved January 1, 2009
Curtis, H P (1921), "Glossary of Textile Terms", Arthur Roberts Black Book. , Manchester: Marsden & amp; Company, Ltd. 1921 , retrieved 2009-01-11

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External links

• Unit Converter Online Threads
• Glare Intelligence Textiles
• Textile Count Conversion Calculator
• Counting Yarn Count Conversions

Source of the article : Wikipedia