In textile manufacturing, finishing refers to a process that converts woven or knitted fabrics into usable materials and more specifically for every process undertaken after dyeing of yarn or fabric to enhance the appearance, performance, or "hand" Feel) from textile or apparel. The exact meaning depends on the context.
Some finishing techniques such as bleaching and dyeing are applied to the yarn before weaving while others are applied to the gray fabric directly after being woven or knitted. Some finishing techniques, such as fulling, have been used by hand-weaving for centuries; others, such as mercerization, are a by-product of the Industrial Revolution.
Video Finishing (textiles)
Introduction
To implant the required functional properties into fibers or fabrics, it is customary to subject the material to various types of physical and chemical treatments. For example, washing and wearing finishes for cotton fabrics is required to make it wrinkle-free or wrinkle free. In the same way, mercerising, singeing, flame retardant, water repellent, waterproof, anti-static and peach finishing reach the various fabric properties desired by consumers.
The use of 100% synthetic textiles has increased significantly since the development of textured yarns made of filaments, and the production of knitted items that grow. The use of open weaving has enabled the production of lighter, breathable fabrics, to ensure better wearing comfort.
The properties of petroleum-based synthetic fibers, most notably of them are polyamide, polyester and polyacrylonitrile, essentially different from natural cellulose fibers and protein/wool. Therefore the order of finishing operations tends to be different. While cellulosic fabrics require resin finishing treatments to provide easy maintenance properties, synthetic fibers already demonstrate these easy maintenance criteria and require only heat regulation operations.
Maps Finishing (textiles)
Cotton finishing process
Purification and startup
Woven gray , woven cotton fabrics in the state of the loom, contains not only dirt, including warp size, but requires further care to develop the full textile potential. In addition, it can receive considerable added value by applying one or more finishing processes.
- Singeing
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- Singeing is designed to burn the surface fibers of the fabric to produce smoothness. The cloth passes the brush to raise the fiber, then passes the plate heated by a gas fire.
- Change
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- Depending on the size used, the fabric may be immersed in a dilute acid and then rinsed, or the enzyme can be used to break down the size.
- Rubbing
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- Scouring, is a chemical washing process done on cotton cloth to remove natural and non-fibrous impurities (eg seed remains) of fibers and dirt or impurities added. Scouring is usually carried in iron vessels called kiers. The fabric is boiled in alkali, which forms a soap with free fatty acids (saponification). A kier is usually closed, so the sodium hydroxide solution can be boiled under pressure, excluding oxygen which will lower the cellulose in the fiber. If proper reagents are used, scrubbing will also remove the size of the fabric although desizing often precedes the polisher and is considered a separate process known as fabric preparation. Preparation and scouring is a prerequisite for most other finishing processes. At this stage even the most natural white cotton fibers are yellowish, and bleaching, the next process, is required.
- Whiten
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- Bleaching improves whiteness by removing the natural dye and remaining debris from cotton; the required level of bleaching is determined by the whiteness and absorption required. Cotton into vegetable fibers will be bleached using an oxidizing agent, such as dilute sodium hypochlorite or dilute hydrogen peroxide. If the fabric should be colored in shade, then a lower bleaching rate may be acceptable, for example. However, for white sheets and medical applications, the highest level of whiteness and absorption is very important.
- Mercerising
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- Another possibility is mercerizing where the fabric is treated with a caustic soda solution to cause swelling of the fibers. This results in increased affinity, strength and dye. The cotton is dircerized under tension, and all the alkali must be washed before the tension is released or the shrinkage will occur. Mercerizing can be done directly on a gray cloth, or after bleaching.
Color
Color is a sensation that is caused when the white light from a source such as the sun is reflected off the pigment on the surface. Selective pigments reflect certain wavelengths of light while absorbing others. Dyes may be regarded as irreversible substances into materials having these properties. The reflected color is defined by the molecular structure, and in particular the parts of the chromogenic molecule called the chromophore group. There are two processes used to apply colors:
- Coloring
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- Finally, cotton is an absorbent fiber that is responsive to the staining process. Immersion, for example, is generally carried out with anionic direct dye by fully immersing the fabric (or yarn) in aqueous dye according to the prescribed procedure. To increase the speed of resistance to washing, rub and light, other dyes such as barrels and reactive are usually used. This requires more complex chemistry during processing and thus is more expensive to apply.
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- Printing, on the other hand, is a color application in the form of pastes or inks to the fabric surface, in a predetermined pattern. This can be thought of as a localized staining. The design of printing on dyed fabrics is also possible. Common processes are block printing, roller printing and screen printing
Completed
Mechanical finishing
- Raising
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- Other finishing processes are increasing. During the lifting, the fabric surface is treated with sharp teeth to lift surface fibers, giving the impression of hairiness, tenderness and warmth, as in flannel.
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- Calendering is the third important mechanical process, in which the fabric is passed between heated rolls to produce a smooth, polished or embossed effect depending on the nature of the roll surface and relative velocity.
Chemical handling
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- Many other chemical treatments can be applied to cotton fabric to produce low levels of flammability, crease resistance and other special effects.
- Shrink (Sanforizing)
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- The shrink technique (sometimes referred to as sanforizing), in which the fabric is forced to shrink width and/or lengthwise, creating a fabric in which any residual tendency shrinks after the subsequent washing is minimal.
Finish default
Quality oriented
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- Reject
- Desizing for woven fabrics.
- Press
- Scours with detergents, alkaline solutions, or enzymes remove foreign matter.
- Shrink, Sanforization
- Cut or wipe the fabric by removing the protruding fibers on the surface of the fabric. Flame singeing is the standard process: a wet cloth is passed through an array of gas burners at the appropriate distance to burn the pill from its surface.
Design-oriented
- Woven fabric bleaching eliminates any previous color to get a uniform color during the process of death.
- Immersion adds color.
- Printing adds colors and patterns.
- Watering adds a moirÃÆ'Â © pattern.
Handle oriented
- Fulling or waulking adds weight and density.
- Hydrophobic finishing produces a cloth that rejects stains or water.
- Weighing silk with a metal salt or polymer adds weight and improves grip.
Special finishing for natural fibers
Bio-polishing removes fibers protruding from the fabric through the action of enzymes. Enzymes, such as cellulase for cotton, selectively remove prominent fibers. This enzyme can be disabled by the increase in temperature.
Mercerize makes the woven cotton fabric stronger, more lustrous, has a better dye affinity, and becomes less abrasive.
Cultivation lifts the surface fibers to enhance softness and warmth, such as on flannel.
Peach Finish bends the fabric (either cotton or synthetic mixture) to the emery wheel, making the surface velvety. This is a special end result that is mostly used in clothing.
Fulling or waulking is a thickening method of wool material to make it more water-resistant.
Decatising to bring dimensional stability to the woolen fabric.
Calendering creates one or both smooth and shiny surfaces. The fabric is passed through a fast moving and hot stainless steel cylinder.
Smoothing or Pre-shrinking preventing the fabrics and clothing produced from shrinking after production. This is also a mechanical solution, obtained by feeding the cloth between the rollers and the rubber blanket, in such a way as the rubber blanket presses the feed yarn and imparts compression shrinkage.
Folds Folding solvents or "wash-and-wear" or "wrinkle-free" are achieved by the addition of a finished chemical resin that makes the fibers take on qualities similar to synthetic fibers..
Finish anti microbial causes fabric to inhibit microbial growth. Warm and humid environments found in textile fibers promote microbial growth. Infestations by microbes can cause cross infection by pathogens and the development of odors where the fabric is worn next to the skin. In addition, smudges and loss of textile substrate fiber quality may also occur. In order to protect the wearer's skin and the textile substrate itself, an anti-microbial coating is used for textile materials.
Finishing specifically for synthetic fibers
Hot determination from synthetic fabrics removes the internal tension inside the fiber, produced during manufacture, and new conditions can be fixed by rapid cooling. This heat setting improves the fabric in a relaxed state, and thus avoids the subsequent crease or crease of the fabric. Presetting the goods allows to use a higher temperature for the setting without considering the dye sublimation properties and also has a beneficial effect on the immersion behavior and the properties that run from the fabric. On the other hand, post-regulation can be combined with several other operations such as Thermasol dyeing or polyester optical pollution. Post-setting as the final solution is useful for achieving high dimensional stability, along with the desired grip. The heat setting is an important part in textile finishing.
Hardening and filling processes: The hardening effect is desired in polyamides and certain polyester materials (eg, deep skirts, inner collar layers), which can be done by reducing mutual independence of fabric structural elements by deposition of polymers in coatings as films the good one.
Hydrophilic finish offset low humidity and water absorption capacity in synthetic fiber material, which becomes uncomfortable in contact with skin. Certain products, based on modified polyamides (oxy-ethylated), make the fabric more pleasing by reducing water cohesion so that it spreads to a wider area and thus more rapidly evaporates.
Anti-pilling coating reduces pilling, unpleasant phenomena associated with thread spun fabrics, especially if they contain synthetic. Synthetic fibers are more easily brought to the fabric surface because of their smooth surface and circular cross section, and because of higher tensile strength and abrasion resistance. With "picking" knits also occur: by abrasion, individual fibers work themselves out of the loop thread onto the surface, and the garment catches a pointy or rough object. Knitting is susceptible to this effect because of its open weave and large yarn.
Anti-static finish prevents dust from sticking to the fabric. Effective anti-static chemicals are mostly chemically inert and require Thermasol or heat treatment to repair on polyester fabrics. Polyether substances have been found to be beneficial but do not affect the dyestuffs in the fibers, not to damage the abrasive resistance. In general, the anti-static agent Thermasol also has a good soil release action, which is permanent as is the anti-static effect. The anti-static coating may also be of the polyamide type, which can be cured at a moderate temperature.
Finish without slippage gives a rougher surface filament. Synthetic weft yarns and weft yarns in loosely woven fabrics are particularly vulnerable to slip due to the smoothness of the surface when fabric structures are disrupted and their appearance is no longer attractive. Silica gel dispersions or colloidal silicic acid solutions are used in combination with latex polymers or acrylate dispersions to obtain a more permanent effect, together with a simultaneous increase in resistance to pilling or snagging. This polymer coating is also capable of providing a soft and smooth grip to a synthetic fabric without making it waterproof.
Hold Fire or Hold: to reduce flammable rates.
Finish anti-microbial: with the increasing use of synthetic fibers for carpets and other materials in public places, the ultimate anti-microbial results are increasingly important. Commonly used products are brominated phenol, quaternary ammonium compounds, organo-silver compounds and tin, which can be used as a solution or dispersion. They can also be incorporated in polymer films deposited on the surface to achieve controlled release.
References
Bibliography
- Collier, Ann M (1970), Textile Handbook , Pergamon Press, p.Ã, 258, ISBNÃ, 0 - 08-018057-4, ISBNÃ, 0-08-018056-6
- Kadolph, Sara J (2007). Textiles (10 ed.). Pearson/Prentice-Hall. ISBN: 0-13-118769-4.
- Textil-Praxis (1958), 401 - ,, Befeuchtung oder DÃÆ'¤mpfen von Wollgarnen "
- Textilbetrieb (1981), 29 - ,, GleichmÃÆ'¤ÃÆ'Ÿige Effekte beim GarndÃÆ'¤mpfen "
- Dr. H.-J. Henning, Dr.-Ing. Cl. Sustmann - Melliand Textilberichte ,, Untersuchungen ÃÆ'¼ber das VakuumdÃÆ'¤mpfen von Wollgarnen "(1966), 530
- Jens Holm Dittrich, Paul Naefe, Johann Kreitz - Melliand Textilberichte ,, Verfahren zur Drallberuhigung von Wollgarnen durch KurzzeitdÃÆ'¤mpfen "(1986), 817
External links
- Textile Finishing Articles
- Textile Processing Guide
- Thread dyeing tips and techniques
Source of the article : Wikipedia
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