A bra ( ), short for brassiere ( , UK or ), is a clothing suspender designed to support or cover the wearer's breast. Swimsuit, camisole, and dress without backless may have built-in breast support.
Bras is a complex garment made of many parts. Most come in 36 sizes; standards and measurement methods vary greatly. Up to 85% of women may be wearing the wrong size.
Video Bra
Etymology
The term bra was used by the Evening Herald in Syracuse, New York, in 1893. It gained wider acceptance in 1904 when DeBevoise Company used it in their advertising copy - though the real word is Norman French for a kid's shirt. In French, this is called soutien-gorge (literally "throat advocate"). These and other early versions resemble a rigid camisole with boning.
Vogue first used the term bra in 1907, and in 1911 it entered into the Oxford English Dictionary . On 3 November 1914, the newly created US patent category for "brassieres" was inaugurated with the first patent issued to Mary Phelps Jacob. In the 1930's bra gradually shortened to bra .
Maps Bra
History
Wearing clothes to support breasts may come from ancient Greece. Women wear apodesmos , then st? Thodesm? , mastodmos and mastodeton , all meaning "breast bands", wool or linen bands wrapped in chest and tied or pinned on the back.
The pieces of linen textiles found in East Tyrol in Austria dated between 1440 and 1485 are believed to have been bra. Two of them have cups made of two sheets of linen sewn with a cloth that extends to the bottom of the torso with a row of six fish eyes to tie with lace or rope. One has two shoulder straps and decorated lace in cleavage.
From the 16th century, the underwear of rich women in the Western world was dominated by a corset, which pushed the breast up. At the end of the nineteenth century, clothing designers began experimenting with alternatives, dividing the bodice into sections: retaining devices such as the belt for the lower body, and a device that hung the breast from the shoulders to the upper body.
Women have played a big part in the design and manufacture of bras, accounting for half of the patents filed. Dresden-based Germany, Christine Hardt, patented the first modern bra in 1899. Sigmund Lindauer from Stuttgart-Bad Cannstatt, Germany, developed a bra for mass production in 1912 and patented it in 1913. It was mass-produced by Mechanische Trikotweberei Ludwig Maier und Cie, in BÃÆ'¶blingen, Germany. In the United States, Mary Phelps Jacob received a patent in 1914 for the first recognized bra design as the basis for a modern bra. Mass production in the early 20th century made garments widely available to women in the United States, Britain, Western Europe, and other countries influenced by western fashion. Lack of metal in World War I pushed the end of the corset.
Brassiere was originally produced by a small production company and supplied to retailers. The term "cup" was not used until 1916, and manufacturers rely on elastic cups to accommodate different breast sizes. Women with larger or pendulous breasts have a choice of long line bra, shaped backs, wedge wedges between cups, wider straps, Lastex strength, strong bands under a cup, and light bones.
In October 1932, S.H. Camp and Company correlate the size and remoteness of breasts to the letters A to D. Camp featured a profile labeled letter to the breast in the February 1933 issue of Corset and Underwear Review . In 1937, Warner began displaying cup sizes in his product. The adjustable bands were introduced using many hooks and blinders in the 1930s. By the end of World War II, most fashion-conscious women in Europe and North America wore bras, and women in Asia, Africa, and Latin America began to adopt it.
The urban legend that the bra was created by a man named Otto Titzling ("sling sling") who lost the lawsuit with Phillip de Brassiere ("filling the bra") from the 1971 book Bust- Up: The Story of Cheerful Otto Titzling and Bra Development and deployed in a comedy song from the movie Beach .
Legal
In Germany, companies and companies are permitted to oblige their female employees to wear bras as part of the dress code, and can dismiss female employees who do not wear them.
Producing
Construction
A mass production bra was produced to fit a prototypical woman standing with her arms at her sides. The design assumes that both breasts are the same size and symmetrical.
Bra is one of the most complicated clothes to be made. Typical designs have between 20 and 48 parts, including bands, hooks, cups, layers, and straps. Bras is built on a square frame model. Chantal Thomass lingerie designer said,
This is a very technical outfit, made of many small pieces of cloth, with so many sizes to consider for different cups, etc. These are the clothes you wash every day, so the stitches and structures must be very strong. Very different from a piece of clothing; it deals directly with the skin, it must be super solid.
The main components of the bra are the chest bands that wrap the body, two cups, and shoulder straps. Chest strap is usually closed on the back by hook and buttons, but can be tied at the front. The sleeping bra or athletic bra lacks fasteners and is pulled over the head and breast. The part between the cups is called gore. The part under the armpit where the band joins the cup is called "rear wing".
The bra components, including the top and bottom of the glass (if seamed), middle, side and rear panel, and rope, are cut to factory specifications. Many layers of fabric can be cut at the same time using a computer-controlled laser or bandsaw slide device. Pieces assembled by cut workers using industrial sewing machines or automatic machines. Metal hooks and coated eyes are sewn by machines and heat is processed or ironed to the rear end of the tape and labels or labels are affixed or printed on the bras itself. Bra that has been folded (mechanically or manually), and packed for shipment.
Chest bands and cups, not shoulder straps, are designed to support women's breast weight. Strapless Bras relies on underwire and additional seaming and stiffening panels to support it. Shoulder straps of some sports bras cross across the back to take the pressure off the shoulders as the arm is lifted. Manufacturers continue to experiment with exclusive frame designs. For example, the Playtex model "18-Hour Bra" uses the M-Frame design.
Materials
Bras was originally made of linen, broadcloth cotton, and twill weaving and sewn using flat-bias or bias-band stitches. They are now made of various materials, including Tricot, Spandex, Spanette, Latex, microfiber, satin, jacquard, foam, mesh, and lace, which are blended to achieve a specific purpose. Spandex, synthetic fiber with integrated "stretch memory", can be mixed with cotton, polyester, or nylon. Mesh is a high-tech synthetic consisting of ultra-fine filaments that knit tightly to fineness.
Sixty to seventy percent of bras sold in Britain and the United States have underwired mugs. Underwire made of metal, plastic, or resin. The underwire is built around the perimeter of the cup in which it attaches to the band, increasing its rigidity to improve support, lift, and separation.
Wirefree or bra softcup has additional connection and internal reinforcement. T-shirt bra uses a cup mold that removes stitches and hides the nipple. Others use padding or forming materials to increase breast size or cleavage.
Size
In most countries, bras have band and cup sizes, such as 34C; 34 is the width of the band, which is the direct measurement under the breast, and C is the cup size, which refers to the volume of the breast. Most bras are offered in 36 sizes; The Triumph "Doreen" comes in 67 sizes, up to 46J. Bra cup size relative to the size of the band, because the female breast volume changes with the dimensions of the chest. Cup B on 34 bands is not the same size as cup B on 36 bands. In countries that have adopted European EN 13402 standard size, measurements are rounded to the closest multiples of 5 cm (2.0 inches).
An incorrect bra can cause back and neck pain. Women with larger breasts tend to buy bra that are too small, while women with smaller buttons do the opposite. Because manufacturing standards vary greatly, finding the right bra fits is difficult. Women tend to find bra that look fitting and stick to that size, although they may lose and gain weight. In a survey in the UK, 60% of 2,000 women between the ages of 16 and 75 said they had the right bra, and 99% said that fit is the least important factor when choosing a bra. Increased publicity about the problem of a fitting bras has increased the number of fitting women. British Marks & amp; Spencer states that about 8,000 women are paired for bras in their stores every week. However, about 80-85% of women still wear the wrong bra size.
Bra experts recommend a professional bra kit from the lingerie department at a clothing store or specialty clothing store, especially for cup size D or larger, and especially if there is significant weight gain or loss, or if the wearer constantly adjusts his bra. Women in Britain change their bra size an average of six times during their lifetime.
The signs of a loose bra band include bands that go backwards. If the ribbon causes the meat to spill on the edges, it is too small. A woman can test whether the bra tape is too tight or loose by turning the bra on her body so the cup is behind and then checking for any matches and comforts. Experts advise that women choose the appropriate band size by using the outermost hook. This allows the wearer to use a closer hook when the bra is stretched for a lifetime.
Style
Bra can be designed to increase the size of a woman's breasts, or to make cleavage, or for other aesthetics, fashion or more practical considerations. Breastfeeding bras are designed to help breastfeed. The compression bra, like a sports bra, encourages and minimizes breast movement, while the encapsulation bra has a cup to support. Breast support can be built into several swimsuits, camisole and dresses.
The bra comes in a variety of styles, including backless, balconette, convertible, shelf, full cup, demi-cup, minimize, padded, plunge, posture, push-up, racerback, sheer, strapless, T-shirt, underwire, unlined and cup soft.
Culture
Mode
Although there is a medical and surgical need for a bra, it is mostly worn for fashion or cultural reasons. The woman's choice of what the bra should be consciously and unconsciously is influenced by the social perception of the ideal female body shape, which changes over time. As underwear, the bra is also about expressing the sex appeal of women and the expression of sexual fantasies. Bras is also used to make statements as evidenced by the designs of Jean Paul Gautier and Madonna's Blond Ambition Tour.
In the 1920s in the United States, the mode was to flatten breasts as characterized in the Flapper era. During the 1940s and 1950s, the sweater girl became fashionable, supported by a bullet bra (also known as a torpedo bra or cone) worn by Jane Russell and Patti Page. in the early 1960s, smaller breasts gained popularity, and by the late 1990s larger breasts became more fashionable. Iris Marion Young described his preference in the United States in 1990: "round, sitting high on the chest, large but not round, with a look of assertiveness." This is considered contradictory in several ways.
As an outer garment, the bra in the form of bikini tops in the 1950s became an acceptable public display in modern times. During the 1960s, the designers and producers introduced a soft, underwire bra. After Miss America's protest in September 1968, manufacturers were worried that women would stop wearing a bra. In response, many are changing their marketing and claiming that wearing their bra is like "not wearing a bra". In the 1970s, women were looking for a more comfortable and natural looking bra.
Victoria's Secret commissioned a fantasy bra every fall. In 2003, they rented Mouawad jewelry to design that contained more than 2500 carats of diamonds and sapphires; worth USD $ 10 million, it was the most valuable bra in the world at the time.
Underwear as outerwear
It became a fashion from the early 1990s to wearing clothes that showed bra straps. Sports bra, in particular, are often worn as outerwear. The Versace Fall 2012 collection features open-top fashion at the front, showing an underwire bra.
Madonna was the first to start showing her bra straps, in the late 1980s. The corset that she wore as an outfit during her 1981 world tour of Blond Ambition sold for USD $ 52,000 in 2012 at the Christie Pop Culture auction in London.
Wearing clothes that reveal a bra or rope becomes so common that Cosmopolitan creates guides in 2012 on how to describe it. Suggestions include avoiding plain bra, mustache, smooth-cup, so exposure does not appear accidentally; ensure the bra is in good condition; and wear styles that match the color of the outer outfit or differ dramatically.
Usage
Bra is not worn around the world; in some third countries bras can cost up to 10-30 hours of female salary, making them unaffordable by most of the population. In 2011, women in Fiji need to pay up to a week's salary for a new bra. Bras is highly appreciated in the secondhand market in West Africa. The Uplift Project provides recycled bra for women in developing countries. Since 2005 they have sent 330,000, including to Fiji, Vanuatu, Tonga, and Cambodia.
In 2009 Somalia's hardline Islamist group, Al-Shabaab forced women to shake their breasts at gunpoint to see if they were wearing a bra, which they called "un-Islamic". A Mogadishu resident whose daughter was whipped said, "Islamists say a woman's chest must be firmly naturally, or flat." In 2009, Elena Bodnar invented the Emergency Bra, which doubles as a gas mask; he came up with the idea when as a young doctor he witnessed the Chernobyl nuclear disaster. He received the Nobel Prize in Public Health Nobel for his design.
Surveys have reported that 5-25 percent of Western women are not wearing a bra. Harris's poll commissioned by Playtex asked more than 1,000 women what they liked in a bra. Among the respondents, 67 percent said they preferred to wear a bra to go without a bra, while 85 percent wanted to wear a "bra boost shape that feels like nothing at all." They are divided into subconscious bras: 49 percent say they prefer an underwire bra, the same percentage as those who say they prefer a wireless bra.
According to underwire manufacturers S & amp; S Industries of New York, which supplies bra to Victoria's Secret, Bali, Warner, Playtex, Vanity Fair and other labels, about 70 percent of women wearing bras wear less bra tight.
In an online survey for All You Magazine in 2013, 25 percent of women report they do not wear a bra every day. A "National No-Bra Day" was first observed in the United States on July 9, 2011. Women posted on Twitter about the help they felt when removing their bra. More than 250,000 people expressed an interest to "attend" the day on the Facebook page.
Wearing a bra does not prevent the breast from loosening. Many women, with the wrong belief that breasts can not anatomically support themselves, think that wearing a bra will prevent their breasts sagging in the future. Researchers, bras manufacturers, and health professionals can not find evidence to support the idea that wearing a bra for any time slows breast ptosis. Manufacturers of bra are careful to claim that bras only affect the shape of the breasts while they are being worn.
Economic impact
Consumers spend about $ 16 billion per year worldwide for bras. In the US during 2012, women have an average of nine bras and wear six regularly. That's an increase from 2006, when the average American woman has six, one of which is without a rope, and one in colors other than white. British women in the 2009 survey reported that they had an average of 16 bras.
The average bra size among North American women has changed from 34B in 1983 to 34DD in 2012-2013, and from 36C last year to 36DD in the UK during 2014-2015. Changes in bra size have been associated with increased rates of obesity, breast implants, increased use of birth control, pollutants that mimic estrogen, the availability of larger bra choices, and women who wear better-fit bras.
Bras are made in Asian countries, including Sri Lanka, India, and China. Despite some social pressures from anti-sweat movements and anti-globalization movements to producers to reduce the use of sweatshop workers, most apparel manufacturers rely on them directly and indirectly. Prior to 2005, trade agreements restricted textile imports to the EU and the United States. China exports US $ 33.9 billion in textiles and clothing annually to the EU and the US. When the quota ended on January 1, 2005, the so-called Bra Wars began. Within six months, China sent 30 million more bra to two markets: 33% more to US and 63% more to EU. In 2014, the average bra cost is GBP29.8. In 2012, Africa imports a $ 107 million bra, with South Africa accounting for 40%. Morocco are second and third Nigeria, while Mauritius are buying above per capita.
In countries where labor costs are low, bras worth US $ 5-7 to produce sells for US $ 50 or more in American retail stores. In 2006, women's garment workers in Sri Lanka earned about US $ 2.20 per day. Similarly, the Honduran garment factory workers in 2003 paid US $ 0.24 for every $ 50 Sean John jerseys they made, less than one half of one percent of the retail price. In 2009, residents in the textile manufacturing town of Gurao in China's Guangdong province made over 200 million bras. Children are employed to assemble a bra and get paid 0.30 yuan for every 100 bra straps they help collect. In one day they can produce 20 to 30 yuan.
Socialization
Informal surveys have found that many women start wearing bras to be fashionable, to adjust to social or maternal pressures, or to physical support. Women sometimes wear bras because they mistakenly believe that they prevent sagging breasts. Very few mention comfort as the reason. While many Western women admit that they have been socialized to wear a bra, they may report feeling open or "violated" without one, or that wearing one improves their appearance.
Feminist opinion
The feminist bra-burning monastery (see below) finds an echo in the previous feminist generation that calls for a burning corset as a step toward liberation. In 1873, Elizabeth Stuart Phelps Ward wrote:
Burn the corset!... No, you also do not store whales, you will not need a whalebone anymore. Build a cruel steel fire that has crammed it over your thorax and abdomen for years and breathe a sigh of relief, for your emancipation, I assure you, from now on it has begun.
Some feminists began arguing in the 1960s and 1970s that bras were examples of how women's clothing was formed and even changed the shape of a woman's body into male expectations. Professor Lisa Jardine listened to feminist Germaine Greer talking about a bra during a formal dinner at Newnham College, Cambridge, in 1964 (Greer had been a member of that college in 1962):
At the graduate desk, Germaine explains that there can be no deliverance for women, no matter how highly educated, as long as we are required to cram our breasts into a miniature Vesuvius-made bra, two non-sewn white cones that do not bear any resemblance to female anatomy. The discomfort experienced by the Sixties bra, he argued vigorously, was a terrible symbol of the oppression of women.
In 1968 on Miss America's feminist protest, the protesters symbolically threw a number of feminine products into the "Trash of Freedom." This includes a bra, which is one item that protesters call "women's torture instruments" and accouterments of what they regard as enforced femininity. A local news in Atlantic City Press erroneously reported that "bras, belts, falsies, curlers, and copies of popular women's magazines were burned on 'Freedom Trash Can'". The people in attendance said that no one burned a bra or nothing to take off his bra. However, a female reporter (Lindsy Van Gelder) covering the protests drew an analogy between feminist protesters and Vietnam War protesters who burned their draft cards, and parallels between protesters burning their draft cards and the women who burned their bra were encouraged by several organizers including Robin Morgan. "The media took part bras," Carol Hanisch later said. "I often say that if they call us 'corset burners,' every woman in America will run to join us."
Feminism and "burning bra" become related in popular culture. The term analog "laundering-athletes" has since been created as a reference for masculism. While feminist women do not actually burn their bra, some stop wearing it in protest. Writers and feminist Bonnie J. Dow have suggested that the relationship between feminism and burning-bra is driven by individuals who oppose the feminist movement. "Bra-burning" creates a picture that women are not really looking for freedom from sexism, but are trying to declare themselves sexual beings. It can make people believe, as he wrote in his 2003 article "Feminism, Miss America, and Media Mythology," that women just try "trendy and attractive men." Some feminist activists believe that anti-feminists use myths that burn bra and are subjected not to underestimate what the protesters tried to achieve at the 1968 feminist protest of 1968 and the feminist movement in general.
The Germaine Greer The Female Kasim (1970) became associated with the anti-bras as it shows how tight and uncomfortable a bra is. "Bras is a ludicrous discovery," he writes, "but if you make a rule of bralessness, you simply submit yourself to another oppression."
Susan Brownmiller in her book Femininity (1984) takes the position that women without a shock bra and men are angry because men "implicitly think they have breasts and only those who have to remove a bra."
The feminist writer Iris Marion Young wrote in 2005 that the bra "serves as a barrier to touch" and that a woman without a bra is "deobjectified", removes the "hard, pointed out point that is considered the norm". Without a bra, in his view, a woman's breasts are not consistently shaped objects but change as women move, reflecting the natural body. Other feminist anti-bra arguments from Young in 2005 included that training bras were used to indoctrinate girls into thinking about their breasts as sexual objects and to highlight their sexuality. Young also wrote in 2007 that, in American culture, breasts are subject to "[c] apitalist, a culture dominated by patriarchal American media [which] predicts breasts before a frozen and mastered glance." Academician Wendy Burns-Ardolino wrote in 2007 that women's decision to wear a bra is mediated by "male outlook".
See also
- Bustier
- Handbra
- Lingerie
- Bra man
- Pasties
- Victorian clothing reform
References
Bibliography
Further reading
External links
- Patent
- US PAT No. 2,433 - 1859 Combined breast pads and arm-pit shield
- US PAT No. 844,242 - 1907 Bust supporters
- US PAT No. 1,115,674 - 1914 Mary Phelps Jacob's Brassiere
Source of the article : Wikipedia
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