Calico (in English usage since 1505) is a plain, non-bleached cotton textile made and often not fully processed. It may contain an inseparable part of the skin, for example. The fabric is much finer than muslin, but less rough and thick than canvas or denim, but still very cheap because of its unfinished and invisible appearance.
This cloth originally came from Calicut town in southwest India. It was made by a traditional weaver called c? Liyans. Raw fabrics are dyed and printed in bright colors, and calico prints are becoming popular in Europe.
Video Calico
Histori
Calico originated from Calicut, (from which the name of textiles came) in southwest India (in present-day Kerala) during the 11th century. The fabric is known as "c? Liyan" for indigenous people.
Mentioned in Indian literature in the 12th century when author H? Macandra describes a calico cloth with a lotus design. In the 15th century, calico from Gujarat appeared in Egypt. Trade with Europe followed from the 17th century onwards.
Calico knitted using cotton S? Mice for both warp and weft.
Cotton politics
In the 18th century, England was famous for its wool and wool fabrics. The industry, centered in the east and south in cities like Norwich, jealously protects their products. Cotton processing is very small: in 1701 only 1,985,868 pounds (900,7 kg kg) of cotton were imported into England, and in 1730 it fell to 1,545,472 pounds (701,014 kg). This is because of commercial laws to protect the wool industry. Cheap calico prints, imported by East India Company from Hindust? N (India), has become popular. In 1700, the Parliament Act was passed to prevent the import of dyes or prints from India, China or Persia. This causes the request to switch to a non-finished unfinished gray cloth - dyed or printed. It is printed with a popular pattern in southern England. Also, the Lancashire businessman produces a gray fabric with linen and cotton yarn, known as a fustian, which is sent to London for finishing. The Cottonwool imports recovered though, and in 1720 almost returned to their 1701 level. Again a wool producer, in a true protectionist way, claims that imports take jobs away from workers in Coventry. A new law was passed, imposing fines on anyone caught wearing molded or stained kalico muslin. Neck and fusion cloths are excluded. Lancashire producers exploited this release; Colored cotton feed with linen linen is specifically permitted by the 1736 Manchester Act. Now there is an artificial demand for woven fabrics.
In 1764, 3,870,392 pounds (1,755,580 kg) of cotton-wool were imported. This change in consumption patterns, as a result of restrictions on imported finished goods, is an important part of the process that reduces the Indian economy from sophisticated textile production to raw material supply only. These events occurred under colonial rule, which began after 1757, and described by Nehru and also some newer scholars as "de-industrialization."
Calico Printing
The early Indian Chintz, ie, sparkling lustrous with large floral patterns. mainly produced by painting techniques. Later, the colors were applied by wooden blocks, and the fabric factory in England printed calico using printed blocks. The Calico printer at work is depicted in one of the stained glass windows made by Stephen Adam for Maryhill Burgh Halls, Glasgow. Confusing, linen and silk printed in this way are known as linen calicoes and silk calicoes . Early European calicoes (1680) will be a plain weave-cheap cotton cloth with a weft woven fabric and the same plain woven warp in, or unbleached cotton or cotton, with a block-printed design using a single fixed alizarin dye with two mordans, giving a red pattern and black. Polychromatic prints are possible, using two additional sets of beams and blue dyes. The taste of India is for dark print background while European market prefer pattern on base cream. As the centuries progressed, European preferences moved from large chintz patterns to smaller and more restrictive patterns.
Thomas Bell patented printing techniques in 1783 using copper rolls, and Livesey, Hargreaves, and Company placed the first machine to use it in operation near Preston, Lancashire in 1785. The production volume for print fabrics in Lancashire in 1750 was estimated at 50,000. 30 yards (27 m) In 1850, it was 20,000,000 pieces. After 1888, block printing is only used for short-term specialized work. After 1880, profits from printing fell because of overcapacity and companies began to form a joint. Initially, three Scottish companies formed United Turkey Red Co. Ltd. in 1897, and the second, in 1899, was the larger Printing Association of Calico Printers 46 and 13 merchants combined, representing 85% of the printing capacity of the UK. Part of this capacity was removed and in 1901 Calico had 48% of the printing trade. In 1916, they and other printers formed and joined trade associations, which then set a minimum price for every 'parts price' of the industry.
The trade association remained in operation until 1954, when the arrangement was opposed by the Government Monopoly Commission. During the intervening period many trades have been lost overseas.
Maps Calico
Terminology
In the UK, Australia and New Zealand:
- Calico - simple, woven weft fabric and the same simple weft with white cotton, beige or unbleached.
- Muslin - plain cotton fabric that is very smooth and lightweight.
- Muslin cloth - muslin.
- Gauze - cotton fabric is very soft and smooth with a very open plain weave.
- Thin cotton cloth - gauze.
In America:
- Calico - cotton cloth with small floral prints all
- Muslin - a simple, woven weave and woven ammunition that is cheap in white cotton, beige or unbleached and/or plain weave cotton fabrics that are very smooth, light (sometimes called muslin gauze).
- Kasa Muslin - the lightest and most woven weave of the gauze.
- Gowns - any fabric that is very light, generally with plain weave
- Thin cotton fabric - a very soft and smooth cotton fabric with a very open plain weave.
Printed calico was imported into the United States from Lancashire in the 1780s, and here linguistic separation took place, while Europe retained the word calico for fabric, in America it was used to refer to the print design.
These colorful, colorful fabrics give rise to the use of the word calico to describe the color of cat's fur: "calico cat". Patterned fabrics also name two North American crab species; see calico crabs.
See also
- Calico Acts
- Calico Cat
- Calico Jack
References
External links
- Espinasse, Francis (1874). Lancashire Worthies . London: Simpkin, Marshall, & amp; Co . Retrieved 2010/12/01 Ã,
- Ã, Beach, Chandler B., ed. (1914). "Calico". New Student Reference Work . Chicago: FE Compton and Co.
- Charles O'Neill (1869) A dictionary of immersion and calico printing - a digital facsimile from Linda Balai Pustaka
- William Crookes (1874) Practical handling and printing-kaliko handbook. Illustrated with period swatch fabric. - Digital facsimile from Linda Hall Library
- Deazley, R. (2008) 'Commentary on the Calico Printer' Act 1787 ', in Primary Source of Copyright (1450-1900), eds L. Bently & amp; M. Kretschmer, Copyright History 1787 Calico Printers' Act
Source of the article : Wikipedia
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