Corset

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Corset is a garment that is worn to hold and train the body to the desired shape, traditionally a smaller waist or a larger lower part, for aesthetic or medical purposes (either for duration of wear or with more resistance old effects). Both men and women are known to be wearing corsets, though these items for years are an integral part of women's wardrobe.

Since the late 20th century, the fashion industry has borrowed the term "corset" to refer to superiors who, on many levels, mimic the look of a traditional corset without acting like them. While modern corsets and corset tops often feature ropes or boning, and generally mimic the historical style of a corset, they have very little, if any, effect on the wearer's body shape. The original corset is usually made by a corset and is often attached to individual users.

Video Corset

Etimologi

The word corset is derived from the ancient French word corps and the small body that , which itself comes from corpus (Latin for body). Corset construction crafts are known as bodice , as they generally wear. (The word corset is sometimes also used as a collective form of corset.) Someone who makes a corset is korsetier or korsetiÃÆ'¨re (French term for a man and for woman maker, respectively), or sometimes just a corset .

In 1828, the word corset began to be used in general in English. The word was used in The Ladies Magazine to describe the "layered plates" that the French call the corset. It is used to distinguish a lighter corset from a heavier period.

Maps Corset

Usage

Mode

The use of the most common and famous corset is to streamline the body and make it in accordance with fashionable silhouette. For women, it most often emphasizes the curved figure by reducing the waist and thus exaggerating the breasts and hips. However, in some periods, the corset has been used to achieve a straight up and down tubular shape, which involves minimizing breasts and hips.

For men, corsets are more often used for slimming images. However, there was a period from about 1820 to 1835 - and even to the late 1840s in some instances - when a head-wasp shape (small, peeked into the waist) is also desirable for men; wearing a corset sometimes achieves this.

An "overbust corset" wraps the body, extending from under the arm toward the hip. An "underbusted corset" begins just below the breast and extends toward the hip. "Longline corset" - either overbust or underbust - extends past the iliac crest, or hip bone. Longline corsets are ideal for those who want increased stability, have longer torque, or want to smooth their hips. The long "standard" corset will stop short of iliac crest and is ideal for those who want increased flexibility or have shorter torso. Some corsets, in very rare instances, reach the knees. The shorter type of corset that covers the waist area (from low on the rib to right above the hip), is called waist cincher . The corset also includes a garter for stocking; or, a separate garter belt can be worn for it. (It was in the days before pantyhose or tights.)

Traditionally, corsets support visible clothing and spread the pressure of large dresses, such as crinoline and bustle. Sometimes, the corset cover is used to protect the outer garment from the corset and to smooth the corset line. The original corset cover is worn under the corset to provide a layer between it and the body. Corsets are not worn next to the skin, probably because of the difficulty with laundering these items during the 19th century, because they have steel boning and metal eyelets that will rust. Corset cover is generally in the form of light light, made of cotton grass or silk. Modern corset wearers can wear corset liners for many of the same reasons. Those who tie their corsets tightly use a liner to prevent burns on their skin from the rope.

Medical

People with spinal problems, such as scoliosis, or with internal injuries, can be fitted with a corset shape to paralyze and protect the torso. Artist Andy Warhol was shot in 1968 and never fully recovered; she wore a corset for the rest of her life.

Fetish

In addition to the use of fashion and medical, corsets are also used in sexual sexism, especially in BDSM activities. In BDSM, a dutiful person may be asked to wear a corset, which will be glued tightly and restrict the wearer to some extent. A dominant person may also wear a corset, often black, but for completely different reasons, such as aesthetics. A specially designed corset, in which the breasts and vulva are exposed, may be worn during vanilla or BDSM sex activities.

Construction

The corset is usually made of a pliable material (such as cloth, especially coutil, or leather) hardened with boning (also called ribs or fixed) inserted into the duct in the fabric or skin. In the 18th century and early 19th century, the thin strip of baleen (also known as whalebone) was favored for boning. Plastics are now the most commonly used materials for light, fake corsets and the majority of poor quality corsets. Spring and/or spiral steels are preferred for stronger and generally better corsets. Other materials used for boning include ivory, wood, and sugar cane. (By contrast, a corset is usually made of elastic fabric, without boning.)

The corset is held together by a blow, usually (though not always) behind. Tightening or loosening the shoelaces results in appropriate changes in corsetal firmness. Depending on the desired effect and time period, the corset can be tied from top to bottom, from the bottom up, or both up from the bottom and down from above, using two ropes that meet in the middle. In the heyday of Victoria's corset, a good woman's bodice rope will be fastened by her maid, and a man with her valet. However, Victoria's corset also has front-buttoned or buttoned openings called busk. If the corset is worn loose, it's possible to leave the lacing adjusted and take the corset on and off using the front opening. (If the corset is worn fitting, this method will damage the busk if the rope is not too loose before). Self-struck may be very difficult where the goal is extreme waist reduction (see below). The type of corset and binding the corset into a subtle class mark; women who can not afford the waiters often wear front-laced brushes.

Convenience

In the past, a woman's corset was usually worn over a cloak, a low-necked sleeveless dress made of washable material (usually cotton or linen). It absorbs sweat and keeps the corset and dress clean. In modern times, tee shirts, camisole or corset liners can be worn.

The strike is not in line with strong activity. During the second half of the 19th century, while wearing a corset was common among women, sports corsets were specially designed for use when cycling, playing tennis, or horseback riding, as well as for maternity clothes.

Waist reduction

By wearing a tight corset for a long time, known as tightlacing or waist training, men and women can learn to tolerate extreme waistline constriction and ultimately reduce their natural waistline. Although small women are often able to descend to smaller waists in absolute numbers, women with more fat are usually able to reduce their waists by a greater percentage. Although many different sizes are used, the smallest popular sizes used are 16, 17 and 18 inches. Some women are so attached that they can only breathe with the top of their lungs. This causes the lower part of their lungs to be filled with mucus. These symptoms include a mild cough but persistent, as well as a heavy breath, which causes a chest up and down appearance. Until 1998, the Guinness Book of World Records listed Ethel Granger as the smallest waist recorded on 13 inches (33 cm). After 1998, the category changed to "the smallest waist of the living". Cathie Jung takes the title with a 15 inch (38 cm) waistline. Other women, such as Polaire, have also achieved such reductions (14 inches (36 cm) in case). However, this is an extreme case. Corsets and usually still designed to support, with the freedom of body movement is an important consideration in their design.

History

The corset has been associated with Catherine de 'Medici, wife of King Henry II of France. He imposed a ban on the thick waist in court during the 1550s. For nearly 350 years, the main supporting tool of women is a corset, with ropes and dwellings made of whalebone or metal. Other researchers have found evidence of corset use at the beginning of Crete (Minoan civilization).

The corset has undergone many changes. Initially, it was known as a "pair of bodies" at the end of the 16th century. It's a simple, stiff corset with boning reed or whalebone. A busk made of wood, horn, whalebone, metal or ivory further strengthens the front of the center. It was most often tied behind, and at first, the clothes provided for the aristocracy. Then the term "pair of bodies" will be replaced by "fixed" and is commonly used during the 17th and 18th centuries. It remains essentially transforming the upper body into a conical or cylindrical shape. In the 17th century, tabs (called "fingers") in the waist were added.

The period of residence evolved in the 18th century when whalebones were used more, and there were more boning used in the garment. The shape of his stay also changes. While the stay is low and wide in front, they can reach as high as the upper shoulders behind. Can remain without straps or use shoulder straps. The straps are generally mounted on the back and tied on the front side.

The purpose of the 18th century is to support the statue and provide a fashionable cone shape while pulling the shoulders back. At this time, the fish's eye is reinforced with stitches and not placed face to face, but instead staggered. This lets remain a laced spiral. One end of the lace to stay put and knotted in the bottom hole; the other end is wound through the hole of the dwelling and is fastened at the top. Strict-binding is not the purpose of staying for this time period. Women at all levels of society, from women in courts to street vendors, remain.

During this time period, there is evidence of a variant of the stay, called a "leap", which is more loose than fixed with an attached arm, like a jacket.

The corset was originally a waist-lined vest, which French women use as an alternative to a stiff corset. They are only linen layered, tied in front, and not boned. These clothes are meant to be worn on informal occasions, while clothing is worn for court outfits. In the 1790s, it still began to miss the fashion. This development coincided with the French Revolution and the adoption of neoclassical dress styles. Interestingly, the men, the Dandies, who started wearing corsets. Fashion survived until the 1840s, although after 1850 people who wore bodice claimed they needed them for "back pain".

At the beginning of the 19th century, when gussets were added to space for bust, it remained known as a corset. They are also extended to the hip and the lower tabs are replaced by gussets in the hip and have less boning. The shoulder straps disappeared in the 1840s for normal clothing.

In the 1820s, the mode changed again, with the waist line lowered back to an almost natural position. This is to allow more ornaments on the corset, which in turn sees the corset returning to modern fashion. The corset starts to be made with several pads and more bony. Some women make their own, while others buy their corsets. The corset is one of the first mass-produced clothing for women. The corset began to be more reinforced in the 1840s. In 1850, boning steel became popular.

With the emergence of metal eyelets, a strict lacing becomes possible. The position of the fish's eye changes. They are located opposite each other in the back. The front is tied with metal busk in front. The corset is mostly white. The corset in the 1850s 1860 was shorter than a corset from the 19th century to the 1840s. This is due to changes in the silhouette of women's clothing. The 1850s and 1860s emphasized hoopskirt. After the 1860s, when the loop was out of style, the corset became longer to form the abdomen, exposed by new lines of the princess's style or cuirass.

For the reformist dress of the 1800s, the bodice was a dangerous 'crime' of morals, promoting the free gender views of a shallow, shallow body of fashional desires. Clear health risks, including internal organs damaged and rearranged, interfere with fertility; weakness and depletion of health in general are also blamed on excessive corsets. Finally, the reformist criticism of the corset joins the throng of voices shouting against tightening, becoming more general and extreme as the nineteenth century progresses. Preachers who oppose firming, doctors advise patients to oppose it and reporters write articles condemning the futility and frivolity of women who will sacrifice their health for the sake of fashion. As for many corsets accepted as necessary for beauty, health, and posture of an upright military style, the dress reformers are viewed strictly in vain and, especially at the height of the era of Victorian morality, a sign of moral indecency.

American women who are active in anti-slavery and simplicity movements, with their experience of public speaking and political agitation, demand reasonable clothing that will not limit their movements. While support for the fashionable clothing is contested that the corset maintains an upright, 'good figure', as a necessary physical structure for a civilized and well-ordered society, this clothing reformer argues that women's clothing is not only physically harmful, but also "the result of a male conspiracy. " to make women subject by growing them in slave psychology. "They believe changes in fashion can change the entire position of women, allowing greater social mobility, independence from men and marriages, the ability to work for wages, as well as physical movement and comfort.

Pada tahun 1873, Elizabeth Stuart Phelps Ward menulis:

Burn the corset!... No, you also do not store whales, you will not need a whalebone anymore. Build a cruel steel fire that has crammed it over your thorax and abdomen for years and breathe a sigh of relief, for your emancipation, I assure you, from now on it has begun.

Despite this protest, it was little changed in tight fashion and underwear in 1900. During the Edwardian period, the straight front corset (also known as the S-Curve corset) was introduced. The corset is straight ahead with a curve in the back that forces the upper body forward and derrion out. This style was worn from 1900 to 1908. This corset style was originally conceived as a health corset, which is a type of corset made of wool and reinforced with cording and promotes the health benefits of wearing wool on the side of the skin. It is sold as an alternative to a boned corset. However the S-Curve corset became the framework for many fashionable ornaments from the late 1890s and 1900s.

The corset reached its longest length at the beginning of the 20th century. At first, the long line corset reaches from the breast to the upper thigh. There is also a longline corset style that starts under the breast, and requires the use of a bra. This style is meant to complement the new silhouette. It is a boneless style, closer to a modern corset than a traditional corset. Longline style was abandoned during World War I.

The corset fell out of fashion in 1920 in Europe and North America, replaced by a girdle and elastic bra, but survived as a costume article. Initially clothing items, corsets have become a popular outerwear item in the Fetish, subculture, BDSM and Goth. In the fetish and BDSM literature, there is much emphasis on tightlacing, and many corset makers serve the fetish market.

Outside the talisman community, the inventors of living history and historic costume fans still wear corsets and stay in line with their original purpose to give the right shape to the figure while wearing historic fashion. In this case, the corset is underwear rather than outerwear. A skilled corset maker is available to make reproductions of historic corset shapes or to design new styles.

In the late 1940s and early 1950s, there was a brief rise of the corset in the form of a waist cincher sometimes called a "waspie". This is used to provide an hourglass figure as dictated by the "New Look" Christian Dior. However, the use of waist cincher is restricted to haute couture, and most women continue to use girdle. The Waspies also met with a push back from a women's organization in the United States as well as female members of the London Parliament as a corset had been banned under the allotment during World War II. The resurrection is short, because New Look gives way to a less dramatic silhouette.

In 1968 on Miss America's feminist protest, the protesters symbolically threw a number of feminine products into the "Trash of Freedom." These include corsets, which are among the items that protesters call "women's torture instruments" and accouterments of what they consider to be female-uplifting.

Since the late 1980s, the corset has undergone a periodic revival, all of which usually comes from haute couture and sometimes drips through mainstream fashion. Vivienne Westwood fashion designer using a corset contributed to the push up bust trend that lasted from the late 1980s throughout the 1990s. This revival focuses on the corset as an item of outerwear rather than underwear. The most powerful of these revivals is seen in the fall fashion collection of 2001 and coincides with the launch of the movie Moulin Rouge! ; costumes featuring many corsets as the hallmark of the era. Another fashion movement, which has renewed interest in the corset, is a Steampunk culture that utilizes Victoria's late-fashion outfit in a whole new way.

Special types

There are several types of special corsets and tools such as corsets that combine boning.

Corset dress

Corset gown (also known as a twisted corset for producing a restrictive effect similar to a lame skirt) is a long corset. It's like an ordinary corset, but long enough to cover the legs, partly or completely. Thus it looks like a dress, hence its name. A person wearing a corset gown may experience great difficulty in walking up and down stairs (especially if wearing high heels) and may not be able to sit if the boning is too stiff.

Another type of corset dress is created for high fashion that is uniquely seen by some modern corset makers. This modern style is functional as well as fashionable and is designed to wear comfortably for a dramatic look.

Corset and Collar neck

The neck corset is a type of collar posture that incorporates fixed and is generally not considered to be an actual corset. This type of corset and its purpose of improving posture have no long-term results. Because certain parts of the neck are pulled toward the head, a band on the neck called the platysmal band is likely to disappear. Like a neck corset, collars serve some of the same purpose. According to British Medical Journal G. J. Huston, the collar is worn to allow minimal neck movement after an accident on the road. Furthermore, he concluded that wearing a collar to improve the neck structure is less expensive than physiotherapy. The corset and collar neck has become a fashion statement, not an asset to improve posture. As you can see in the picture on the right, this individual is wearing a suitable corset and collar.

See also

• Bustier
• Corset controversy
• Dudou, a T-shirt in Chinese is sometimes known as a "corset"
• Space faint
• Talisman
• Gibson Girl
• Tightlacing
• Waist cincher

References

Notes

Further reading

• Doyle, R. (1997). Waisted Efforts: Picture Guides for Creating a Corset . Publication Press Sartorial. ISBN: 0-9683039-0-0.
• Kunzle, David (2004). Fashion and Fetishism . Sutton Publishing. ISBN 0-7509-3808-0.
• Steele, Valerie (2001). The Corset: A Cultural History . Yale Press University. ISBNÃ, 0-300-09953-3.
• Utley, Larry; Carey-Adamme, Autumn (2002). Fetish Mode: Uninstalling Corset . Press the Green Candy. ISBN: 1-931160-06-6.
• Waugh, Norah (1990). Corsets and Crinolines . Routledge. ISBNÃ, 0-87830-526-2.

External links

• Corset in Curlie (based on DMOZ)
• Full text CORSETS: An Analysis (1913) on Wikisource
• The Corset at the Digital Collection of the Chicago History Museum
• Secret History of Corset and Crinoline - A seminar by the Victoria and Albert Museum
• The corset in the Museum of New Zealand's Te Papa Tongarewa collection
• The 18th Century Residence
• Corset: In-Picture Guide
• History and Construction of Corsets

Source of the article : Wikipedia