The early dress of the European Middle Ages changed gradually from about 400 to 1100. The main feature of this period was the final Roman costume encounter with the costumes of attacking people who moved to Europe during this period. For several centuries, people in many countries were dressed differently depending on whether they identified with ancient Roman populations, or new populations such as Frank, Anglo-Saxon, Visigoth. The most easily recognizable distinction between the two groups is the male costume, where the attacking people generally wear short tunics, with belts, and long pants, hoses or leggings in sight. The Romanised population, and the Church, remain faithful to the longer tunic of the Roman formal costume, coming under the knee, and often to the ankles. At the end of the period, these differences finally disappeared, and the forms of Roman clothing remained primarily as a special garment for the clergymen who have changed relatively little to this day.
Many aspects of clothing in that period are still unknown. This is partly because only the rich are buried in clothing; it's rather the custom that most people are buried in the shroud , also called the winding sheet . Funerals in full clothing may be regarded as a pagan custom, and poor families may be happy to keep a set of wearable clothing. Expensive clothing for all but the richest in this period.
Video Early medieval European dress
Ingredients
In addition to the elite, most people in those days had low standards of living, and clothing might be made at home, usually from fabric made at the village level, and very easy to cut. Silk Cloth imported elite from Byzantium, and then Muslim, world, and possibly cotton. They can also buy bleached linen and dyed linen and only wool fabrics are polished in Europe itself. However, embroidery decoration may be very broad, although it usually can not be detected in art. Most people may only use wool or linen, usually not skinned, and locally hunted skin or furs.
Archaeological discoveries have shown that elites, especially men, can have remarkable jewelry, the most common of which are brooches to tie their robes, but also buckles, wallets, weapons, necklaces and other shapes. Sutton Hoo finds and Tara Brooch are two of the most famous examples of Ireland and England in the middle of that period. In France, more than three hundred gold and bee jewels were found in the tomb of King Merovingian Childeric I (died 481, all but two bees have been stolen and lost), allegedly stitched into his robes. Metal accessories are the clearest indicator of high-ranking people. In Britain the Anglo-Saxons, and probably most of Europe, are only free people who can carry seax or knives, and both sexes usually wear one at the waist, to be used for all purposes.
Decorations
Men's and women's clothing is trimmed with ornaments, embroideries, tablet woven ribbons, or colored borders that are knit into fabric in looms. The famous Anglo-Saxon opus anglicanum needlework is sought as far as Rome. Anglo-Saxon wearing a decorated belt.
Maps Early medieval European dress
Men's dress
The main outfit is the tunic - generally a long fabric panel, folded with neck holes cut into the folds, and arms are glued together. It is common for rich people to display their prosperity with longer tunics made of finer and more colorful fabrics, even silk or trimmed silk. The tunic is usually bonded, with a strong leather belt or cloth. Depending on the climate, trousers are made loose or tight (or not worn at all if the weather is warm). The most basic leggings are pieces of cloth wrapped around the legs, and held by a long, possibly leather strap, called cross-gartering. This may have been done with loose pants as well. Tighter hoses are also worn.
More of this arm robe is worn, which for the upper classes gradually becomes longer towards the end of the period. For farmers and soldiers always on the knees or above. For winter, outside or formal attire, robes or coats complete the outfit. The Frank family has a distinctive short robe called the "saie", which barely reaches the waist. It is tied on the left shoulder (so as not to block a sword blow) by a brooch, usually a fibula and then a round brooch on the Continent, and almost always round for Anglo-Saxon, while in Ireland and Scotland in particular the most common Celtic or pennant brooch style. In all areas, brooches can be very complicated jewelry in precious metals at the top of society, with the most complicated Celtic brooches, like Tara Brooch and Hunterston Brooch, perhaps the most ornate and finely crafted of all. The "cappa" or chaperon, a one-piece hood and cape on the shoulders are used for cold weather, and Roman straw hats for summer field work may spread to attacking people, because it is universal by the High Middle Ages. Shoes, not always worn by the poor, are mostly simple shoes - usually a cow leather sole and a softer skin top, sewn together, and then flipped over.
Charlemagne
Charlemagne biographers note that he always wore Frank style, which meant that he wore a better clothing version if it was superior to the richer peasants in many parts of Europe for centuries afterward:
No king of England at that time had a habit of dressing in such detail. The authors also note that he preferred English wool to riding cloak ( sagÃÆ'Â| ), and complained to Offa of Mercia about the tendency to make the imported cloak to Frankia impractical. A little narrative later recounts his dissatisfaction with a short robe imported from Frisia: "What is the use of this pittaciola : I can not cover myself with them in bed, when ascending I can not defend myself against the wind and rain , and down to call Nature, the lack of freezing thighs ". But then he was six feet four inches tall. His clothes may have been a political movement, as the earlier Frank dynasty, the Merovingians, seemed to have been ready to borrow Byzantine style. An early 6th-century Merovingian Queen was buried in a purple silk dress and a gold-embroidered silk robe, as well as a woolen hose and a cloak.
Clergy
At the beginning of this period, the pastor generally dressed as a layman in the post-Roman population; This really changed during this period, since layman's clothing was profoundly changed but the clerical clothing was almost nonexistent, and in the end all the clerical ranks wore distinctive clothing.
The pastor uses a special short hair style called tonsure; in England the choice between the Roman head (top of the head is shaved) and the Celtic tonic (only the front of a shaved head, from ear to ear) should be completed at the Whitby Synod, which supports Rome. Rich churches or monasteries came during this period to wear lavishly decorated clothes for service, including embroidered opus anglicanum and imported silk. Various shapes of Roman robes, including chasuble, cope, pallium, stole, maniple and dalmatic became regular during the period, and in the end there was a complex recipe for who wore what, and when. For most of these forms of vestation survive today in Catholic and (even more conservative) Anglican churches. The same process occurred in the Byzantine world during the same period, which once again retained the early medieval style in the Eastern Orthodox cloak.
Secular priests (ie non-monastic) usually wear white alb, or loose tunics, tied at the waist with rope (officially called cincture), when not performing service. The senior clergy always seem to associate their robes with a brooch in the center of their chest, not on their right shoulders like a layman, who need their unbenched sword arm.
Women's clothing
Women's clothing in Western Europe underwent a transition during the early medieval period when the migrating Germanic tribes adopted the symbol of late Roman authority, including clothing. In Northern Europe, at the beginning of the period of about 400-500 CE on the Continent of Europe and slightly later in England, women's clothing consists of at least one long-arm tunic mounted on the wrist and clothing like a tube, sometimes called peplos, worn on the shoulder. These clothes were brought with German Migration to Iberia and Southern Europe. These clothes can be decorated with metal applique, embroidery, and woven bands.
After about 500 M, women's clothing moves toward the layered tunic. In the Franks and their clientele eventually Alemanni and Bavarii, as well as in East Kent, women wear long robes as a deep coat and long coat, covered in front with some brooches and belts, as an outer layer. This example can be seen in the interpretation of Queen Arnegunde's grave. Not all graves identified as women contain the necessary brooch to cover the front of the "coat suit", indicating that not all women wear that style, or at least not all women are buried in that style. The brooch may be too expensive for most women.
British Anglo-Saxon ladies, outside of East Kent, mostly wore ensembles of several layered tunics. These women are well known for their embroidery and may have adorned their clothes with silk and wool or band embroidery. These tunics are often interpreted to have a neckline style called "keyhole neckline" that may have facilitated breastfeeding. This neckline will be covered with brooches for decency and warmth. In later Anglo-Saxon England, there is visual evidence for garments such as large ponchos that may have been worn by royal ladies or kings.
The most famous clothing of early Scandinavian Scandinavian was the so-called Apron Dress (also called trÃÆ'¤gerrock, hÃÆ'¤ngerock, or smokkr). This may have evolved from the early Germanic Iron Age peplos. Garments are often interpreted as tubular shapes (either fitted or loose) worn with a strap over a shoulder and a large brooch (sometimes called a "turtle brooch") in the upper chest. Examples of appliqued silk ribbons used as decorations have been found in a number of graves. Not all graves identified as belonging to women contain brooches symbolizing this type of clothing, indicating that some women wear different styles of clothing. There is evidence from Dublin that at least some Norse women wear hats or other headgear, it is unclear how this practice.
In all the upper layers, the neckline, arm, and hems may be decorated with embroidered, woven tablets, or silk that is applied, so rich for the upper class. Hoses or socks may already be worn on the feet. Veils or other headscarves appear in art depicting northern European women beginning with the Romans, but this is not universal. The wider use of head coverage, especially for married women, seems to follow the Christianization of various Germanic tribes. Feathers are depicted in many classical tales of Germanic tribes but do not survive well in archaeological relics, making it difficult to interpret how and where they are used in women's clothing. In all regions, clothing is mainly made of wool and linen, with some examples of silk and hemp.
Region variation
The areas where Roman influence remained strong included most of Italy except the North, South-West of France, as far north of Tours, and perhaps cities like Cologne in Germany. Iberians are largely governed by the Moors at the end of the period, and in any case have received rather different influences from the Visigoth compared with those who attacked others; Spanish dresses remain distinctive well after the end of the period. The Visigothic kingdom of Toulouse also ruled South and West France during the first two centuries of that period.
The early Anglo-Saxon ladies seemed to have a distinctive tubular gown, tied to the shoulders with a brooch, and tied up. This style fits with several German dresses from much earlier in the Roman period. After about 700, which roughly coincides with the general conversion to Christianity, they adopted a common Continental style.
The disbelieving Vikings, especially the women, dressed somewhat differently from most of Europe, with the hair of the open woman, and the garment made out of a cloth, pinned brooches on both shoulders. Below they wear underwear sleeves, perhaps with woolen robes intervening, especially in winter, when a jacket may have been added as the top finish layer.
See also
- Anglo-Saxon Dress
- The Beginning of the Middle Ages
- Byzantine Dress
- Byzantine Sutra
- Gaelic dress and fashion
- British medieval outfits
- Western fashion history
Note
References
- ÃÆ'ËÅ"stergÃÆ'  ¥ rd, Else, Woven into the Earth: Textiles from Norse Greenland , Aarhus University Press, 2004, ISBNÃ, 87-7288-935-7
- Owen-Crocker, Gale R., Dressing in Anglo-Saxon England , revised edition, Boydell Press, 2004, ISBNÃ, 1-84383-081-7
- Payne, Blanche; Winakor, Geitel; Farrell-Beck, Jane: The History of the Costume, from Ancient Mesopotamia to the 20th Century , 2nd Edn, pp.!, 1-28, HarperCollins, 1992. ISBNÃ, 0-06-047141-7
- Piponnier, FranÃÆ'§oise, and Perrine Mane; dressed in the Middle Ages ; Yale UP; 1997; ISBNÃ, 0-300-06906-5
- Youngs, Susan (ed), "The Work of Angels", Celtic Metal Works 6th century to 9 M , 1989, British Museum Press, London, ISBN 0-7141- 0554- 6
Further reading
- Sylvester, Louise M., Mark C. Chambers and Gale R. Owen-Crocker (eds.), 2014, Medieval and Textile Gowns in the United Kingdom: Multilingual Handbook Woodbridge, Suffolk and Rochester, NY Boydell & amp; Brewer. ISBN 978 1 84383 932 3.
Source of the article : Wikipedia
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