Huipil ['wipil] (from Nahuatl hu? p? lli [wi: 'pi: l: i] ) is the most common traditional dress worn by indigenous women from central Mexico to Central America.
It is a loose-fitting tunic, commonly made of two or three pieces of rectangular fabric which is then joined together with stitches, ribbons or strips, with an opening for the head and, if sides are sewn, openings for the sleeve. Traditional hippies, especially ceremonial ones, are usually made with woven fabrics on backstrap looms and are heavily adorned with designs woven into fabrics, embroidery, ribbons, lace and more. However, some huipils are also made from commercial fabrics.
The length of huipil can vary from shorts like blouses or long enough to reach the floor. Traditional huipil styles generally show the ethnicity and community of the wearer because each has its own method of creating fabrics and decorations. Some huipils have intricate and meaningful designs. Huipils ceremony is the most complicated and is reserved for weddings, funerals, high-ranking women and even to dress up the statues of the saints.
Video Huipil
Histori
Huipil has been worn by indigenous women from the Mesoamerican region (central Mexico to Central America) from high and low social levels since before the arrival of Spain to America. It remains the most common female custom clothing still in use.
It is most commonly seen in the Mexican states of Chiapas, Yucatán, Quintana Roo, Oaxaca, Tabasco, Campeche, Hidalgo, MichoacÃÆ'¡n (where it is called huanengo ), Veracruz and Morelos. In Central America, it is most commonly used among the Maya in Guatemala.
After the conquest of the Aztec Empire and Spanish expansion, huipil survived but evolved, combining elements from other regions and Europe. One of the oldest huipils that ever existed was "La Malinche ", so named because it is believed to have been used by HernÃÆ'¡n CortÃÆ' Â © s translator because it resembles his portrayal in Lienzo de Tlaxcala and Firentine Codex. However, the carbon test 14 tested it in the 18th century. It's amazing not only for its age but nothing like it in any collection and it's bigger than usual at 120 by 140 cm. It is made of cotton with feathers, candles and gold thread. The design is dominated by a two-headed eagle, showing both indigenous and Spanish influences. This is part of the Museo Nacional de AntropologÃÆ'a collection.
Some of the huipils, such as those from the Isthmus of Tehuantepec, show the influence of Asia because of the cloth brought from the Philippines. In addition, huipil began to be worn with other clothing, especially European skirts, during the colonial period. This causes changes to the garment itself and how the garment is used. In some cases, huipil becomes shorter, serving as a blouse rather than a dress. In the same area, huipil also evolved into a long and sometimes thick headscarf that framed the face.
To this day, the most traditional huipil is made with hand-woven fabrics on the ropes behind. However, the introduction of commercial fabrics makes this expensive and many native women stop making these fabrics, or make simpler versions. In the early 1800s, women began wearing unadorned huipils or European-style blouses. By the end of the 19th century, most of the Mayan women had forgotten the whole brocade weaving technique.
Huipil survives in many indigenous communities, if not as everyday clothes, as one for special ceremonies or occasions. When a woman wears a huipil, especially ceremony or very traditional, it is a kind of ritual. He became the center of the symbolic world as his head passed through the neck. With his arm, he forms a cross and is surrounded by such myths between heaven and the underworld.
Maps Huipil
Creation
The huipil is a tunic-like garment made with a joint sewing from one to five pieces of cloth. The most common fibers are cotton, but some are made of wool and silk as well. Most huipils are made of two or three parts, which are usually the same size, with one exception being from the plateau of Chiapas, where the middle part is wider than the other. The panels are not sewn together in normal sense with the connection but they are united using ribbons, small pieces of fabric or elaborate stitches that have the edges of the panel touching or almost touching. It adds a layer of decor to the garment.
Most classical hikipil are wider than the length even though there is a decrease in width in recent years. Huipil can be as short as the waist or it can reach the ankle or anywhere in between, but most fall just above or just below the knee. Long or short, not designed to be the right outfit. Neckline can be round, oval, square or simple slit. Most stitched on the sides, leaving a crack at the top so the arm can pass through. Some huipils are not sewn by his side, especially very short ones. While huipils are currently made of commercial fabrics, the most traditional ones are made of hand woven fabrics made with backstrap looms. The pieces used to make huipil are woven into sizes and never cut. Despite its simplicity, backstrap weaving allows more types of techniques and designs to be woven into fabrics than any other type of loom. Most hand woven fabrics have designs woven into them, especially cloths catered for huipil ceremonies. Decorative elements can signify history, cultural identity, something personal about the wearer and more. Since most indigenous people come from agricultural societies, clothing design is generally associated with the natural world. The most complex designs are generally only known by some of the older main weavers. In addition to the designs embedded into the fabric, other decorative elements can include embroideries, ribbons, feathers, lace and more.
The making of traditional huipil is an important cultural and economic activity for the Amuzgos, especially in Xochistlah where most people still wear traditional clothing. Children begin to learn crafts when they are young, learn the techniques and designs of their mothers and grandmothers. Weaving is an important source of income because agriculture is not enough to meet most of the family's needs. While they work on other items such as tablecloths and other clothing items, the most popular and most precious ones remain huipil. The Amuzgo woman has reached a certain level of fame, with weavers such as Florentina LÃÆ'³pez de JesÃÆ'ºs winning recognition at the 2001 UNESCO competition for Latin America and the Caribbean.
Variations
Traditional Huipil generally identifies the indigenous group and its user community as each has its own design for weaving and embroidering. Some communities, such as Jamiltepec in Oaxaca, have a taboo against the huipils made there worn by women from other regions.
Except for a very long huipil, they are generally worn by other garments such as skirts or slippers. Most huipils hang loose but some can be tied at the waist or can be tucked into a skirt like a blouse. In some cases, as in San Juan Copala, Oaxaca, the extra length of the huipil rolls to the waist while worn with a skirt.
Women usually have daily huipil and are charged only on special occasions like weddings. Decorative elements are often arranged in horizontal bands but those with vertical orientations are also found. In some indigenous communities, the luxurious huipil made for a woman's marriage was then carefully stored and stored for later use for her funeral. On the other hand, special huipil begins when a woman reaches a certain age for this purpose. Huipils ceremonies were also made to dress the images of the saints. During the festival, these saints can wear many layers of huipil, giving them a fat appearance.
Cuetzalan, Puebla has an annual coffee and huipil festival called Feria del Huipil y Cafà ©  ©, which began in 1949.
This outfit is common among various Mayan groups. For Maya women in Guatemala, the huipil design on the front and back of the shoulder can identify the type of Maya and from what community. Huipils ceremonies of Maya are worn only by statues of saints and wives of religious officials.
Chinanteca huipils is detailed with all garments covered in geometric designs of woven and embroidered in various colors, with further edges decorated with ribbons. In OjitlÃÆ'¡n, Oaxaca, Chinanteca women wearing a special huipil for their marriage, divided into three classes. The first is called "gala" or "red" which was originally a traditional wedding dress. However, because of the cost, some families can afford it. The second type is called "pavo" which is used for special occasions. This is similar to the first one but with a less intense red color and with a smaller design. The third type, called "pÃÆ'¡jaros y palomas" (birds and pigeons) is the most economical of the three and can be found easily in the market. It is white with birds and other animals with clear and contrasting colors. It is used for middle-aged or older women but has since been adopted by many people.
The indigenous women of Tehuantepec are known for wearing two huipils. The first one is a short velvet huipil with lots of embroideries with flower motifs and a second special occasion, usually white, that frames the face then extends overhead that covers the neck and shoulders. The huipil blouse has a length of only about 60 cm and shows the influence of modern, European and even Asian and is generally worn with thick European style skirts that are also highly decorated. Headgear is called "huipil de tapar" (covering huipil) or bidaniro.
The huipils of Santa MarÃa Magdalena, Chiapas are rich in symbolism with images of gods, flowers, frogs and other images with mythological interests. It also includes a set of symbols that serve as some sort of weaver's signature. Huipil Magdalena ceremony has a design that represents the universe in the form of a cross with the east represented on the right shoulder and west on the left. The southern part is represented in the chest and north behind. Once dressed, the woman becomes the center of the universe. This Huipil is only used by women of the highest social rank and is also used to dress the statues of the saints.
Amuzgo huipil made with brocade cloth. Amuzgo huipils has a sophisticated set of designs based on animals, plants, geometric shapes and more. Some designs are unclear, such as the use of two connected triangles to represent butterflies, but they all have a certain significance.
The ceremonial huipil of ZinacantÃÆ'¡n, Chiapas is also distinguished by creation and symbolism. It is made of white cotton with square neckline or with vertical opening with button fastening. The area of ​​the chest is marked with a red line inside which is a fine white chicken feather tied with white, blue or green thread. The lower border has edges made of the same material and color. This is the only clothing in Mexico that uses pre-Hispanic fur art today. Huipil is often used for marriage because it is believed to guarantee a good marriage. Other white wedding Huipils are found in Pinotepa Nacional, Chopan and CotzocÃÆ'³n in Oaxaca. In Pinotepa Nacional, decorative elements include animals, flowers, human figures, carvings, moon, sun, fish and insects.
The huipils ceremony of Tzotzils has retained the aspect of pre-Hispanic fur art with white fur found in the chest and lower hem.
At Ocotepec and Cuquila in Oaxaca, high up in the Mixtec mountains, there is a wool huipil to fight cold with cotton usually for festive occasions.
Yalaltec huipils in Oaxaca is very simple with decoration only on the chest and back panel with various colors and some edges.
References
Source of the article : Wikipedia
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