1945-60 in Western fashion

src: www.metmuseum.org

Fashion in the years after World War II was marked by the rise of haute couture after years of war savings. The square shoulders and short skirts were replaced by the gentle femininity of the Christian Dior's "New Views" silhouette, with its long curved skirts, waist pegs, and round shoulders, which in turn gave way to an infinite structural look in the late 1950s.

Video 1945-60 in Western fashion

Tren umum

Kembalinya mode

In 1947, the fashion houses in Paris had reopened, and once again Paris re-positioned as a top-class referee. "Regular and rhythmic change of fashion" has been disrupted by war, and a new direction has long been delayed. The soft, tubular shoulders, square lines and short skirts (pre-war and identified with uniforms) are missing. A stylistic succession led by Christian Dior and CristÃÆ'³bal Balenciaga defines the silhouette of women's clothing that changed throughout the 1950s. Television joined fashion and movie magazines in spreading clothing styles. The new silhouette has narrow shoulders, tight waist, breast pressure, and longer skirt, often with wider hems.

Start of Eastern mode

During the early 1950s, the designers in the decolonized Third World sought to create a different identity from European fashion. Urban professionals in Asia and the Middle East, for example, may wear Western-style suits with native head coverings such as Astrakhan, fez or keffiyeh. In India, the traditional Sherwani is adapted into the Nehru collar business suit, while women often wear saris at work. Meanwhile, Red China develops Mao Suit unisex in green, blue and gray to promote socialist values ​​of equality. Due to their minimalist modern design, the two types of suits will later be adopted by the British mods and trendsetter invasion during the 1960s and 70s, especially The Beatles and The Monkees.

Casual wear and teen style

One result of the post-World War II economic expansion was the flood of synthetic fabrics and the easy maintenance process. "Drip-dry" nylon, orlon and dacron, which can retain its folds after washing, become very popular. Acrylic, polyester, triacetate and spandex were all introduced in the 1950s. During the 1940s nylon stockings were a very popular product as they were a lightweight alternative to silk and wool stockings. During WW2, Du Pont company produces nylon exclusively for war effort. At the end of 1945 the demand for nylon stockings was so great that the Nylon riots occurred in stores selling products.

Social change goes hand in hand with the new economic reality, and one result is that many young people who will become breadwinners in their teenage years before the war are now staying home and relying on their parents through high school and beyond, building on the idea of ​​adolescence as a separate stage of development. Adolescent and college students adopted skirts and sweaters as virtual uniforms, and the American fashion industry began targeting adolescents as a special market segment in the 1940s.

In the United Kingdom, Teddy's children from the post-war period created "the first truly independent mode for young people", liking the exaggerated version of the Edwardian English-style flavors with skinny ties and narrow trousers worn short enough to show off tacky socks. In North America, greasers have similar social positions. Previously, teens were dressed the same as their parents, but now a different and rebellious teenage style is being developed.

Young adults return to college under G.I. Bill adopted a simple and functional wardrobe, and kept wearing blue jeans with shirts and pullovers for public informal attire after leaving school. Jack Kerouac introduced the phrase "Beat Generation" in 1948, a generalization of his social circle to characterize a conformist youth meeting in New York at the time. The term "beatnik" was coined by Herb Caen of the San Francisco Chronicle in 1958, and the stereotypical "beat" appearance of sunglasses, berets, black turtlenecks and unadorned dark clothing provided an alternative mode of youth. of both sexes, driven by Madison Avenue marketing specialists.

Maps 1945-60 in Western fashion

Womenswear

New Display Revolution

On February 12, 1947 at 10.30am Christian Dior, 42, presented his first collection on 30 Avenue Montaigne, filled with flowers by Lachaume. Chief Editor of Harper's Bazaar, Carmel Snow, strongly believes in the talents of the obscene, whom he noted in 1937 with the CafÃÆ' Â Anglais model he designed for Robert Piguet. At the end of the fashion show, he exclaimed, "This is quite a revolution, good Christians! Your dresses have such a new look!" A Reuters correspondent confiscated the slogan and quickly wrote it on a note he toss from balcony to courier posted on Avenue Montaigne. The news reached the United States even before all of France, where the press had been striking for a month.

Bar Jacket, New Display icon

With its revolutionary new look, Christian Dior wrote a new chapter in fashion history. Furthermore, to write it, he built it with his own hands. The designer had to dismiss Stockman's too tough and unyielding mannequins to endure the canvas of his visionary wardrobe preparation, said his friend Suzanna Luling: "And so, with the big and nervous blow of the hammer, he gave the same mannequin shape of the ideal woman to the fashion he will launch. "The goal is clear; his hands did not tremble. "I want my dress to be 'built', formed on the curves of a woman whose contours will be distilled.I emphasize that it is, the volume of the hips, emphasizing the breasts, To give my design more resistance, I have almost all the fabrics coated with percale or taffeta , renewing long-abandoned tradition. "So, on February 12, 1947 at 10.30 aa, the announcer introduced" numÃÆ' Â © ro un, number one ". The first outfit worn by Marie-ThÃÆ' Â © rese and opened the show where the audience saw 90 different creation files passing, belonging to two main lines: En Huit and Corolle . Bettina Ballard, Fashion Editor at Vogue, had returned to New York several months earlier after 15 years spent covering French fashion from Paris: "We have witnessed a revolution in fashion at the same time as a revolution in the way of fashion show >. "

The "softness" of the New Look is deceiving; a curved peplum jacket that is formed over a tall, rounded, curved shoulder, and a skirt full of Dior clothes hinges on the inner construction of a new interlining material to form a silhouette. This silhouette has drastically changed from a more masculine, rigid, triangular form to a much more feminine form.

During the postwar period, the customized feminine look is greatly appreciated and accessories such as gloves and popular pearls. The customized suit has a jacket with peplum, usually worn with long, narrow pencil skirts. The day dresses wore bodice and full skirts, with a short jewel or neck or a Peter Pan collar. Shirtdresses, with corset like t-shirts, popular, as well as halter-top sundress. The skirt is narrow or very full, cradled in a skirt; The poodle skirt is a short fashion. Ball gown (full skirt dress for a white tie show) longer than a long foot dress (called "ballerina length"), reaches the floor and worn for the ball (as it is now). The cocktail dress, "smarter than a day's dress but not formal like dinner or evening gown" is worn for an evening party. Short shoulders and bolero jackets, often made to match low-cut, worn gowns. Meanwhile, in Israel, simple biblical sandals, blue and utilitarian cotton shirts, khaki-inspired dresses remain a popular choice for many women due to ongoing economic savings and the need to get ready for battle.

Intimate Clothing

Christian Dior's 'New Look' Collection in 1947 brought the revolution into the fashionable silhouette of the Fifties. Nostalgic feminine Dior's round shoulders, full skirt, soft hips and small waist replaced the box style of the war period in WWII. The hourglass silhouette trend brought about by the popularity of Dior secured the market for intimate attire. Although intimate clothing is usually hidden by outerwear, intimate clothing is primarily symbolic for contradictory beauty in the 1950s because silhouettes are made depending on the type of underlying clothing used. Foundation clothing is an essential item for maintaining silvet curvy, especially bees, belts and horsehair pads. For example, sales of corsets multiplied in the decade 1948-58 (Haye, 1996 p.187). Dior's collection of 'New Look' brings back the reinforced intimate clothing for women, even young ones, to create a feminine silhouette that embraces femininity. Symington Corset Company of Market Harborough was one of the famous intimate apparel manufacturers in the 1950s because they are the official producers of korselettes and girdle Dior. "All girdles are produced with the same design, either black or white, pink cotton velvet cotton is a special feature of reach, and some are woven with the Christian Dior initials in the elastic panel on the side..." (Lynn, 2010, p.106 ). The new 'Bri-Nylon' fabric was introduced by the British Nylon Spinners. This fabric was a popular fabric to be applied to intimate clothing in the 1950s because it was one of the first easy washable and drip-dried fabrics. There was a full corset ad in 1959 showing the popularity of 'Bri-Nylon' and corselet designs in the 1950s. This exquisite porcelain dior features a jacquard elastic net with the back panel down from the elastic stain. Fascinating front panels are in Bri-Nylon lace and marquisette highlighted with alternating ribbons with narrow velvet ribbons. It has a side fastener - partially hook and eye with a zipping extension. Boning is very lightly covered with velvet. '(Warren, 2001, p.30) From the above ads, it is not difficult to find that corselets in 1950 were built in detail with boning, panels, different fabrics in different elasticities.

While corselets reshape the female body with small waist and large hips, a new bra shape called 'cathedral bra' was introduced and became popular in the 1950s. It is called a 'cathedral bra' because there will be a pointed arch made by the bone above the breast when the bra is worn. The bones also separate and determine the shape of the breast by pressing it into a pointy or bullet-shaped form. Therefore, the 'cathedral bra' is also called a bullet bra. The design of the bra was popularized by actresses such as Patti Page, Marilyn Monroe, and Lana Turner, dubbed "Sweater Girls." Although the design of the bra was designed to wear a cocktail dress with no straps and evening dress and became popular during the 1950s, the market for this design was short-lived because it 'tends to slip or need adjustment throughout the night' (Lynn, 2010, p.152). However, other bra designs re-entered the market and cultivated popularity during the 1950s that even affected modern intimate design. The underwire bra was first introduced to the market in the 1930s, however, it was forced to exit the market due to the limited supply of steel in the 1940s to World War II. The underwire bra design re-entered the market as it helped lift the shape of the breasts to form a trendy curvy silhouette with huge bursts in the 1950s. Made with nylon, elastic nylon nets and steel underwires, underwire bra help create fashionable height. Bra underwire still dominates the goods in the modern clothing industry.

Clothes for space age

From the mid-1950s, new unused clothing styles emerged as an alternative to the tight waist and full skirt associated with the New Look. Vogue Magazine mentions knitted garments that are named "T-shirt dress". Paris designers began to transform this popular fashion into haute couture. The Spanish designer Balenciaga had shown clothes that did not fit in Paris in early 1951 and the unused dress from 1954. In 1958, Yves Saint Laurent, Dior's protestor and his heir, debuted "Trapeze Line," adding a new dimension to the camisole dress. These dresses feature a corset shaped with tilted shoulders and high waists, but a signature shape is generated from fireworks, creating a line without a waist from the bodice to the knee. These styles are slowly accepted by the wider community. Coco Chanel made a comeback in 1954 and an important display of the last 1950s was the Chanel suit, with a braided cardigan-style jacket and A-line skirt. In 1957, most of the suits were equipped with lightweight mounted jackets just below the waist and shorter, narrower skirts. The Balenciaga outfit features several stitches and a plain neckline, and follows in the footsteps of a chemise gown without the waistline, straight and unsuitable or with a little A-line princess style, becoming popular. Sleeveless, princess-line dress is called skimmer . A more fitting version is called the sheath dress .

Sportswear

New York had been the center of American design during the war, and remained so, especially for sportswear, in the postwar period. Women in warrior trousers refused to undress these practical clothes that matched the informal aspects of the postwar lifestyle. In 1955, tight drainpipe jeans became popular among American women. Casual clothing is also an increasing component of women's wardrobe, especially white shirts popularized by Brigitte Bardot and Sandra Milo between 1957 and 1963. The casual skirt is narrow or very full. In the 1950s, pants became very narrow, and worn on the ankle. Pants cut into mid-calf are houseboy pants ; shorts, down the knees, called pedals . The shorts were very short in the early 1950s, and the mid-thigh Bermuda shorts appeared around 1954 and remained fashionable throughout the rest of the decade. Loose tops or knitted tops with shorts or shorts. They also wear bikinis for sports training.

Swimsuits, including the popular Gottex brand in Israel and America, are one or two parts; some have loose butts like shorts with short skirts. High-spirited bikinis emerged in Europe and the islands of the South Pacific, but were not commonly used on American soil until the late 1950s.

Hats and hairstyles

Hair is worn short and curled up with a New Look, and a hat is essential for all but the most mundane. The wide brimmed hat cap is shown with the earliest New Look outfit, but the smaller cap soon dominates. The very short short hairstyle was styled in the early 1950s. In the middle of the decade hats are worn less frequently, mainly because the fuller hairstyles such as short pieces, curly poodles and then bouffant and honeycomb become fashionable. The girls "Beat" wear long and straight hair, and teenagers adopt a ponytail, short or long.

Maternity clothes

In the 1950s, Lucille Ball was the first woman to show her pregnancy on TV. I Love Lucy's television show brings new attention to maternity clothes. Most maternity dresses are two sections with loose tops and narrow skirts. Stretch panels are accommodated for a growing female figure. Baby booms from the 1940s to the 1950s also led to a focus on maternity clothes. Even international designers like Givenchy and Norman Hartnell create clothing lines of maternity clothes. Although a new emphasis on maternity clothes in the 1950s wearing fashion maternity clothes is still being photographed in non-pregnant women for advertising.

On September 29, 1959, the patented nursery [1] provided an extension in the vertical direction of the stomach. The front panel of this maternity underwear consists of a high level of elasticity so that in extreme stretch conditions, the woman can still feel comfortable.

Gallery style from 1945 to 1954

1. Actress Maybe an unknown young actress in Cannes, 1948
2. wide-legged pants with cuffs (turn-up) is shown with a sweater, short sleeves are fitted, Germany, 1952.
3. Swimsuit two pieces, 1952.
4. Actress Audrey Hepburn, 1953.
5. The actress Lucille Ball in Houseboy trousers cropped at the press conference, Los Angeles, 1953.
6. Illustrations mode "corselette", showing bust tapered and curved waist line in 1953.
7. The actress Marilyn Monroe and Jane Russell wore a summer dress halter top, Hollywood, 1953.
8. Hair Actress Martha Hyer is used in short and curly poodles in this publicity photo for Sabrina , 1954.

Style gallery 1954-1960

1. First Mrs. Mamie Eisenhower in a bright blue day dress, 1954.
2. Actress Diahann Carroll wore a full skirt dress with a small Peter Pan collar, 1955.
3. Singer Patti Page wore a bra design "bullet bra" in 1955.
4. Actress Marilyn Monroe on The Prince and the Showgirl is wearing a dress sheath that fits the love neckline, 1957.
5. Short hairstyle, 1958
6. A sleek 1958 summer dress with a wide, wide, neckline "boat", Dresden.
7. Singer Anita O'Day performed in 1958 wearing a tight tight dress.
8. Princess Alexandra in a Ballgown Princess-style dress, 1959.
9. Photograph of contestant newspaper "Miss Beatnik" in Venice, California, 1959.

Men's Clothing

Settings

Immediately after the war, men's suits were broad-shouldered and often duplicated. Because warts' restrictions on the cloth subside, trousers become more full, and are usually arranged with cuffs (turn-ups). In America, Esquire introduces a "Bold Look", with broad shoulders, broad collars, and an emphasis on thick and coordinated accessories. In Britain, rationing of clothing remained in force until 1949. Demobilized soldiers were given government suits, usually with blue or gray stripes. Savile Row, a traditional bespoke or tailor-made house, has been heavily damaged in the Blitz and is slow to recover. In 1950, Harper's Bazaar proclaimed "The Return of the Beau". Savile Row introduced the "New Edwardian Look", featuring a slightly flared jacket, natural shoulders, and a narrower piece overall, worn with a curler-edged bowler hat and a long, slender coat with velvet collars and cuffs. This is the style commanded by Teddy Boys, who adds bright socks and bootlace ties, achieves "a combination of dizziness from Edwardian dandy and American gangsters." The frightened Savile Row tailors dropped Edwardian's blatant touch, but business suits continue to move away from the vast British drape pieces, and a single-button, single-buttoned suit with a narrower, less cushioned line on the shoulders becomes fashionable everywhere. Dark charcoal gray is the usual color, and the era of gray flannel suit is born. In the 1950s, the new suit style Continental appeared from Italian fashion houses, with sharper shoulders, lighter cloths, short jackets, and narrow collars.

Sports and leisurewear

Sports coats generally follow the suit jacket. The tartan plaque was fashionable in the early 1950s, and then plaids and examinations of all kinds were worn, as were corduroy jackets with leather buttons and car coats. The 49er jacket, originally worn by hunters, miners and tree fellers, is a popular cold weather coat in America and Canada, and will then be adopted by a teenage surfer subculture. On the West Coast many people, including Howard Hughes and Ricky from I Love Lucy, love two Hollywood colorful gabard jackets with Old Age-inspired belts and detail, often in black, white, beige, beige, burgundy, blue air force, green mint , blue sky, brown brown, blackish, or gray wool cloth. The khaki-colored pants, called chinos , are used for casual occasions. Bermuda shorts, often in plaid madras, appear in the mid-decade and are worn with knee socks. Hawaiian shirts, worn from suspenders, also became very popular during this era. This summer Hawaiian or Carioca shirts become very popular in America, even with President Truman being photographed wearing a sea flora shirt. Knit shirts and sweaters of various popular types throughout the period. Some young men wear tight pants or jeans, leather jackets, and white T-shirts.

Hat and hairstyle

Male hairstyles like the wet look, which is accomplished using products such as Brylcreem. Young men often lengthen their hair and, with pomade or other hair care, put their hair into pompadours.

Accessories

See Hairstyle in the 1950s.

See also

• Teddy Boy
• Ducktail
• Dior
• CristÃÆ'³bal Balenciaga
• Hubert de Givenchy
• Jean DessÃÆ'¨s
• Guy Laroche
• Roger Vivier
• Norman Hartnell
• Charles James (designer)
• Hardy Amies
• Audrey Hepburn
• Grace Kelly
• Marilyn Monroe
• Babe Paley
• Elvis Presley

Note

References

• Brockman, Helen. The Theory of Fashion Design , New York: John Wiley and Sons, 1965, ISBNÃ, 0-471-10586-4,
• Cumming, Valerie, C. W. Cunnington, and P. E. Cunnington. Dictionary of Fashion History , Berg, 2010, ISBN 978-1-84788-533-3
• Samek, Susan M. "Feminine Uniform:" Chic Work "from Mainbocher." Dress 20 (1993): p.Ã, 33-41.
• Tortora, Phyllis G. and Keith Eubank. Historical Costume Survey . 2nd Edition, 1994. Fairchild Publications. ISBNÃ, 1-56367-003-8
• Tortora, Phyllis G. and Keith Eubank. Historical Costume Survey . 4th Edition, 2005. Fairchild Publications.
• Walker, Richard: The Savile Row Story , Prion, 1988, ISBNÃ, 1-85375-000-X

External links

• Patent on Panty Maternity
• "The Golden Age of Couture: Paris and London 1947-57, museum exhibition". The Victoria and Albert Museum. Archived from original on May 10, 2008 . Retrieved May 7 2008 .
• Christian Dior gowns, Indianapolis Museum of Art
• Children's clothing from the 1950s
• Example of French fashion illustration
• "1940s - 20 Fashion and Fashion Illustrations of the 20th Century". Fashion, Jewelry & amp; Accessories . Museum of Victoria and Albert . Retrieved 2011-04-03 .
• "1950s - 20th Century Picture and Illustration Mode". Fashion, Jewelry & amp; Accessories . Museum of Victoria and Albert . Retrieved 2011-04-03 .
• Vintage photos - art, life and fashion in the 20th century.
• Madame GrÃÆ'¨s, exhibit catalog from The Metropolitan Museum of Art (fully available online as PDF), which contains a lot of material about fashion from this period

Source of the article : Wikipedia