Continuous mode , also called eco fashion , is part of an evolving design philosophy and sustainability trend, the goal being to create a system that can be endorsed indefinitely in terms of human impact on the environment and social responsibility. This can be seen as an alternative trend against fast mode.
Video Sustainable fashion
Origin and destination
Sustainable mode began to plunge into the public in the late 1980s and early 1990s as well-known companies such as Patagonia and ESPRIT brought "sustainability" into their business. The owners of the companies at the time, Yvon Chouinard and Doug Tompkins were outsiders and watched the environment degraded by increased usage. They commissioned research on the impact of fibers used in their companies. For Patagonia, this results in a life cycle assessment for four fibers, cotton, wool, nylon and polyester. For ESPRIT the focus is on cotton, which represents 90% of their business at that time.
The sustainable mode principles put forward by these two companies are based on the profound ecological philosophy of Arne NÃÆ'Â|ss, Fritjof Capra, and Ernest Callenbach.
The work of these companies affects the whole movement in fashion and sustainability. They funded the first organic cotton conference to be held in 1991 in Visalia, California. The ESPRIT Ecollection, developed by chief designer Lynda Grose, was launched in 1992 and is based on the Environmental Audit Guide, published by Elmwood Institute. It consists of organic cotton, recycled wool, naturally processed wool, "low impact" dyes (focusing on water energy and toxicity), natural colored cotton, hard clothing that is not electrically coated. Patagonia made a commitment to polyester recycling in 1992 and the company's broad commitment to organic cotton in 1996. Both communicate their actions to "sustainability" through point-of-sale materials, catalogs and PR. Both support the work of The Sustainable Cotton Project, which organizes an agricultural tour for fashion industry professionals to meet directly with farmers who grow organic cotton and HDI in California. Both companies contribute to the US NOSB standard for incorporating organic fiber and food.
Throughout the 1990s and early 2000s, movements in sustainable fashion expanded to include many brands. Although the main focus remains on improving product impact through fiber and fabric processing and material provenance, Doug Tompkins and Yvon Chouinard are early to note the underlying causes of unsustainability: exponential growth and consumption. ESPRIT placed and advertisement in Utne Reader in 1990 made a request for responsible consumption. Since then Patagonia made headlines with the "Do not buy this Jacket" ad in The New York Times.
According to Earth Pledge, a non-profit organization committed to promoting and supporting sustainable development, "At least 8,000 chemicals are used to convert raw materials into textiles and 25% of the world's pesticides are used to grow non-organic cotton, causing irreversible damage to humans and environment, and still two-thirds of the carbon footprint of the garment will occur after it is purchased. "
With an average American dumping almost 70 pounds of clothing per year, the fashion industry is the second biggest polluter in the world.
Maps Sustainable fashion
Slow mode
Slow mode, an alternative to fast mode and part of the so-called "slow motion", supports a principle similar to the principles of slow food, namely:
- Good: quality, good and healthy food
- Clean: production that does not harm the environment
- Self: price accessible for consumers and fair and pay conditions for producers
The "slow mode" expression was created in a 2007 article by Kate Fletcher published at The Ecologist , where he compared the eco/sustainable/ethical fashion industry with slow food movements:
Some of the elements of slow-fashion philosophy include: buying vintage clothing, redesigning old clothes, shopping from small producers, making clothes and accessories at home and buying clothes that last longer. New ideas and product innovations are always redefining slow modes, so using static, single definitions will ignore the evolving nature of the concept.
Materials
There are many factors when considering the sustainability of a material. Renewal and source of fiber, the process by which raw fiber is converted into textile, the working conditions of the person producing the material, and the total carbon footprint of the material.
Natural fibers
Natural fibers are fibers found in nature and not petroleum-based. Natural fibers can be categorized into two main groups, cellulose or plant fiber and animal protein or fiber. The use of these fibers can be anything from buttons to sunglasses like sunglasses.
Cellulose
Cotton is one of the most planted plants and intensive chemicals in the world. Cotton is grown conventionally using about 25% of insecticides in the world and more than 10% of world pesticides. Other cellulose fibers include: flax, hemp, hemp, hemp, abaca, bamboo (used for viscose), soybeans, corn, bananas, pineapple, beechwood (used for rayon).
Protein
The protein fiber comes from animal sources and consists of protein molecules. The basic elements in this protein molecule are carbon, oxygen, hydrogen and nitrogen. Natural protein fibers include: wool, silk, angora, camel, alpaca, llama, vicuna, cashmere, and mohair.
Manufactured
The fibers produced from natural ingredients include: Lyocell and polylactic acid (PLA).
Recycled fiber
Recycled or reclaimed fibers are made from pieces of fabric collected from clothing factories, which are reprocessed into short fibers to be spun into new threads. There are only a few global facilities capable of processing clippings. Variations range from recycled cotton fiber mixtures with RePET yarns added for strength to recycled cotton fibers with virgin acrylic fibers added for color consistency and strength.
Upcycled fiber
Upcycled fibers are made from materials that were not originally used to make fibers, or they were discarded to be considered waste origin. These include fibers made of plastic and gillnets. An example of using this type of fiber can be seen in Adidas shoes made with Parley for the Oceans.
Another example is a fish skin made from fish skin which is a by-product of the food industry. Fish tanning is less harmful to the environment because there is no hair-removal required, which causes solid waste and organic pollutants in the waste water from the process. Also, no poisonous and toxic hydrogen sulfide gas is released in the process.
Designer
The designers say they are trying to incorporate these sustainable practices into modern clothing, rather than producing "hippie clothing". Due to efforts made to minimize hazards in the growth, manufacture and delivery of products, sustainable mode is usually more expensive than clothing manufactured by conventional methods.
Celebrities, models and designers have recently attracted attention to a socially conscious and environmentally conscious fashion.
Eastern European prisoners designed sustainable prison mode in Latvia and Estonia under the Heavy Eco label, part of a trend called "prison couture".
Ryan Jude Novelline created a ballroom dress made entirely of recycled and discarded children's book pages known as The Golden Book Gown that prove that green fashion can provide wealth as a fantasia imaginable. "
Lucy Tammam's eco-couture designer uses eri silk (ahimsa/peace silk) and organic cotton to create an eco-friendly evening couture and a collection of bridal outfits.
Other sustainable fashion labels include Elena Garcia, Nancy Dee, By Stamo, Outsider Fashion, Beyond Skin, Olibertà © Å ©, Hetty Rose, DaRousso, KSkye the Label, and Eva Cassis.
The ongoing fashion movement has begun to make significant streets in the home fashion category home segment. Brands like Boll & amp; Branches make all their products from organic cotton and have been certified by Fair Trade USA.
The Hemp Trading Company is an ethically driven underground clothing label specializing in eco-conscious and environmentally conscious street clothes made from hemp, bamboo, organic cotton and other sustainable fabrics.
Organization
There are organizations working to improve opportunities for sustainable designers and increase movement visibility. The National Association of Sustainable Fashion Designers is one of these organizations. The goal is to help entrepreneurs with business-related emerging modes that create social change and respect for the environment.
Sustainable Designers provide a special triple bottom line education, training, and access to industry tools and resources that advance creative, innovative, and high-impact businesses. The organization's mission is to create social change through the design and fashion business associated with providing education, training and transformative programs for industry and to foster collaboration, sustainability and economic growth.
Red Carpet Green Dress, founded by Suzy Amis Cameron, is a global initiative featuring sustainable fashion on the red carpet at the Oscars. Talents supporting the project include Naomie Harris, Missi Pyle, Kellan Lutz and Olga Kurylenko. Undress Brisbane is an Australian fashion show highlighting sustainable designers in Australia.
Eco Age, a consulting firm specializing in enabling businesses to achieve growth and add value through sustainability is one of the best known organizations that promote sustainable fashion. Its creative director, Livia Firth, is also the founder of the Green Carpet Challenge which aims to promote ethically-tailored clothing from fashion designers.
Ecoluxe London, a nonprofit platform, supports luxury with ethos through the holding of a biennial exhibition during London Fashion Week and featuring eco-friendly and ethical designers.
Fashion Take Action was formed in 2007 and received nonprofit status in 2011. It is an organization that promotes social justice, fair trade and sustainable clothing production as well as sustainability progress in the fashion system through education, awareness and collaboration. FTA promotes sustainable fashion through social media, PR, hosting fashion shows, public discussions, lectures and school conferences.
The Ethical Fashion Initiative, a flagship program of the International Trade Center, a joint UN Conference on Trade and Development (UNCTAD) and World Trade Organization, enables urban craftsmen and rural poverty to connect with the global fashion chain. The initiative also works with young generations of African fashion experts, fostering sustainabfdle forging and fulfilling creative collaborations with artisans on the continent. The Ethical Fashion Initiative is headed by Simone Cipriani.
The advent of technology has paved the way for apps and websites to simplify the ethical mode of experience for customers like the Higg, Free2Workd, and FairTrace Tools.
Controversy
Although organic cotton is considered a more sustainable choice for fabrics, since it uses fewer pesticides and chemical fertilizers, it remains less than 1% global cotton production. Barriers to growth include handwork costs for hand weeding, reduced yield compared to conventional cotton and absence of fiber commitment from brand to farmer before planting seeds. Therefore, the risks and costs of financial up front are borne by the farmers, many of whom are struggling to keep up with the scale of the company's agricultural economy.
Although some designers have marketed bamboo fiber, as an alternative to conventional cotton, citing that it absorbs greenhouse gases during its lifecycle and grows rapidly and abundantly without pesticides, the conversion of bamboo fiber into fabric is similar to rayon and is highly toxic. The FTC decided that bamboo fiber labeling should read "rayon of bamboo". Bamboo fabrics can cause environmental damage in production due to the chemicals used to make viscose soft from hard bamboo. The impact on the production of new materials makes recycling, reclamation, surplus, and vintage fabrics arguably the most sustainable option, since raw materials require no agriculture and no manufacturing to produce. However, it should be noted that this is an indication of the production and consumption systems that create excessive volumes of waste.
Western consumer environmental interests are increasing which can motivate companies to use sustainable arguments and the environment solely to increase sales. And because environmental and sustainability issues are complex, it is also easy to mislead consumers. Companies can use sustainability as a "marketing tactic" something that can be seen as greenwashing.
The future of fashion sustainability
On May 3, 2012, the world's largest summit on sustainability mode was held in Copenhagen, gathering more than 1,000 key stakeholders in the industry to discuss the importance of making the fashion industry sustainable. The Copenhagen Fashion Summit has since gathered thousands of people from the fashion industry in their efforts to create a movement within the industry.
In July 2012, the Sustainable Clothing Coalition launched the Higg Index, a self-assessment standard designed to measure and promote sustainable supply chains in the clothing and footwear industries. Founded in 2011, the Sustainable Clothes Coalition is a nonprofit organization whose members include brands that produce clothing or footwear, retailers, industry affiliates, and trade associations, the US Environmental Protection Agency, academic institutions, and environmental nonprofits.
Source of the article : Wikipedia
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