Hanfu (Chinese: ?? ; pinyin: Ã, HÃÆ'nfÃÆ'º ; literally: "Han clothing") is a term related to the Hanfu movement used to refer to history/Han traditional dress. Although The Han Book contains a reference to '???' (read Han Yifu in Mandarin Modern Standard), the word 'Hanfu' (??) does not appear in the Today's Chinese Dictionary, Cihai or other important dictionaries of Standard Chinese.
Ancient Chinese Han Clothing is very influential on the clothes of East Asia such as Japanese kimono and Korean hanbok.
Video Hanfu
Modern terms and usage
The word "Hanfu" is not included in the Mandarin Mandarin authoritative dictionary Standard " Mandarin Contemporary Dictionary " (Mandarin: ?????? ) and its modern definition created by internet users around 2003.
According to the " Ancient Chinese Dictionary " (Chinese: ????????? ), the term "hanfu" means "clothing of people - Han people. "It is a concept to distinguish Han clothes from minority clothing. The term "hanfu" which is not commonly used in ancient times can be found in some historical accounts from Han, Tang, Song, Ming dynasty and Republic era in China, but no clear history indicates that there is any such underwear name "Hanfu".
In 2003, supporters of Han revivalism launched Hanwang's (Mandarin: Han: sp) website to promote traditional Han outfits and supermata Han Schedule event. Proponents of the movement believe that the term "Hanfu" refers to the seventeenth-century clothing that had disappeared and was used by the Han people, and the meaning of Hanfu in the movement is the same from what is in the historical record, but scientific research shows that " modern Hanfu "is made in Chinese, collaborative, web-based encyclopedia Baidu Baike and Chinese online platform " hanwang " by internet users. Some pioneer movements promoting Han clothing and Han's supremacy agenda recognize that Han's clothing issues can not be separated from issues of racial identity and greater political power in China.
Professor of China Youth University of Political Studies Zhang Xian (Chinese: span lang = "zh"> ?? ) mentions "Hanfu's modern definition" is a concept published by proponents of the hanfu movement. The supporters were mostly students, who created the non-academic, non-official Hanfu standard referring to Han Chinese historical clothing before the Qing dynasty and published it in Baidu Baike. He also argues that the promotion of Han clothing is a "totem" hollow that serves to mislead and deceive people about the racist and regressive nature of the underlying movement. By emphasizing the purity and virtue of Han clture, the Hanis lowered rather than revived national consciousness, and thus represented the distortion and distortion of the mainstream of cultural nationalism on the Chinese border.
Professor of Aichi Zhou Xing University (China: span lang = "zh">) says that the so-called "hanfu", which is not commonly used in ancient times, refers to the traditional clothing imagined by the participants of the movement hanfu. Xing also shows that the academic meaning of "hanfu" and "hanfu" meaning in "hanfu movement" are not the same.
Macquarie University lecturer Kevin Carrico points out that: "In reality, modern hanfu is a clothing style created that has large arms, flowing robes, winding waists and bright colors." Modern proponents claim it is the discovery of the Yellow Emperor myth and is used for centuries by the Chinese people... Han Clothing makes the transition from a fantastically created tradition into a distant image on the screen into a physical reality in the streets of China, where one can wrap and recognize himself. "
Maps Hanfu
History
From the beginning of its history, Han clothing (especially among the elite) can not be separated from the sutras, supposedly discovered by the empress Yellow Emperor, Leizu. Shang Dynasty (around 1600 BC - 1000 BC), developed the foundations of Hanfu ; it consists of yi , a narrow tunic, knee-tied with a sash, and a narrow, ankle-high skirt, called chang , imposed with the letter bixi , the length of the cloth reaching the knee. The primary colors are alive and green is used, because of the level of technology at the time.
The dynasty to follow Shang, the Western Zhou Dynasty, formed a rigorous hierarchical society that uses clothing as a status meridian, and inevitably, the height of one's rank affects the ornateness of the costume. Such markers include the length of the skirt, the size of the sleeve and the level of ornamentation. In addition to this class-oriented development, Han Chinese clothing became looser, with the introduction of broad arms and jade ornaments hanging from sashes that serve to keep yi closed. The yi is basically wrapped, in a style known as jiaoling youren , or wraping the upper right side before the left, since the initial challenge is greater to the right hand of the wearer (the Zhongyuan people discouraged left-handed like many other historical cultures, thinks it unnatural, barbaric, uncivilized, and unfortunate).
Multiple styles
Clothing
Historical Han clothing styles can be summarized as containing garment elements that are arranged in a special and sometimes specific way. This is different from the traditional garment of other ethnic groups in China, especially the Manchu-influenced clothing,
Complete Hanfu clothing is assembled from several pieces of clothing into clothing:
- Yi (?): Any open collar, and worn by both genders
- Pao (?): The whole covered body dress, worn only by the man at Hanfu
- Ru (?): Open the cross-collar
- Shan (?): Open the cross-collar suit or jacket worn over yi
- Qun (?) or chang (?): Skirts for women and men
- Ku (?): Trousers or trousers
Hats, headgear and hairstyle
On top of clothes, hats (for men) or hair ornaments (for women) can be worn. One can often say a person's profession or social rank with what they wear in their head. A typical type of male headwear is called jin (?) For a soft hat, mao (?) For a stiff hat and guan (?) For formal headwear. Officials and academics have a separate set of hats, usually putou (??), wushamao (???), si si-fang pingding jin ( ?????; or just, fangjin : ??) and Zhuangzi jin (???). The typical haircut for women is ji (?) But there are more complicated hairpieces.
In addition, managing the hair is also an important part of the daily life of ancient Han society. Generally, men and women will stop cutting their hair once they reach adulthood. This is marked by the coming of Guan Li Chinese age ceremony, usually done between the ages of 15 to 20. They let their hair grow long naturally to death, including facial hair. This is because Confucianism "????, ????, ????, ????" - which can be roughly translated as 'My body, hair, and skin are given by my father and mother, I dare not damage any of them, because this is the least thing I can do to honor and respect my parents'. In fact, cutting a person's hair in ancient China is considered an official punishment called '?', Designed to embarrass criminals, as well as tattoos '?', Since ordinary people will not have tattoos on their skin because of the same teachings.
Children are freed from the above command; they can cut their hair short, make different kinds of knots or braids, or just let them hang without care. However, once they enter adulthood, every man has to tie his long hair into a bun called the ji (?) Either above or behind his head and always cover the bun with various types of headdress (except Buddhist monks, who will always keep their heads shaved in full to show that they are "cut off from earthly ties from the mortal world", and Taoist monks, who would normally only use a hairstick called '?' (Z? N) to hold bread in place without hiding it). Thus 'hair is disheveled', a common but erroneous description of an ancient Chinese male figure seen in the most modern period drama or Chinese films with hair (not including facial hair) hanging from either side and/or on the rear is historically inaccurate. Women on the other hand, have more choices in terms of decorating their hair as adults. They can still set their hair into various types of hairstyle at will. There are different modes for women in various dynastic periods.
This strict "no-cut" hair tradition is implemented throughout Han Chinese history from Confucius's time to the end of the Ming Dynasty (1644 AD), when Prince Qing Dorgon forced the Han men to adopt the Manchu man's hairstyle, which shaved their bald foreheads and collected the rest of the hair turns into a ponytail on the back (See Queue) to show that they are handed over to the Qing authorities, called "Order Queue" (???). Han's children and women were spared from this order, as well as Taoist monks were allowed to keep their hair and Buddhist monks were allowed to keep all their hair shaved. Han defections to Qing such as Li Chengdong and Liu Liangzuo and their Han forces queue orders to force it into the general population. The Han Chinese army in 1645 under General Han Hong Chengchou forced the queue on the Jiangnan people while the Han people initially paid silver to wear the queue in Fuzhou when it was first implemented.
Style
Han Chinese clothing has changed and evolved with fashion days from the very beginning it was assumed in the Shang dynasty. Many of the earlier designs are more gender-neutral and simple in cuttings. Then the clothes combine a few pieces with men who generally wear pants and women who generally wear skirts. Women's clothing usually accentuates the body's natural curve through a garment collar wrapper over or tied with a belt around the waist.
Informal dressing
Types include boss ( yi ) and buttocks (further divided into pants and skirts for both sexes, with terminology chang or qun ), and one-piece cloak that wraps the body once or several times (shenyi).
- Zhongyi (??) or zhongdan (??): underwear, mostly cotton or white silk
- Shanqun (??): short coat with long skirt
- Ruqun (??): top outfit with garment or a separate lower skirt
- Kuzhe (??): short coat with trousers
- Zhiduo/zhishen (?????): a Ming Dynasty style cloak, similar to zhiju shenyi but with side vents and 'sewn sleeves' (ie cufflinks of closed sleeves keep small openings hands can pass it)
- Daopao/Fusha (??/??): The uniform of the Taoist/Buddhist priest's robe. Note: Daopao does not necessarily mean Taoist robe, is actually a cloaked style for scholars. And the Tao Daopao version is called De Luo (??), and the Buddhist version is called Hai Qing (??).
A typical set of Hanfu can consist of two or three layers. The first layer of clothing is largely zhongyi (??) which is usually underwear such as T-shirts and Western pants. The next layer is the main layer of clothing that is mostly covered on the front. There can be an optional third layer which is often a mantle called zhaoshan that opens on the front. The more complicated Hanfu sets can have more layers.
For footwear, white socks and black cloth shoes (with white soles) are the norm, but in the past, shoes may have front-facing panels stuck to the end of the shoe. Taoists, Buddhists and Confucians may have white line chevrons.
semi-formal wear
A piece of Hanfu can be "made semi-formal" with the addition of the following corresponding items:
- Chang (?): a pleated skirt
- Bixi (??): long front fabric panel attached from belt
- Zhaoshan (??): open open long mantle
- Guan (?) or formal hat
Generally, this form of clothing is suitable for meeting guests or going to meetings and other special cultural days. This form of clothing is often worn by nobles or upper classes because often expensive pieces of clothing, usually made of silk and damask. The mantle sleeves are often deeper than shenyi to create a more productive appearance.
Formal attire
In addition to informal and semi-formal clothing, there is a form of clothing worn only on Confucian rituals (such as essential sacrifices or religious activities) or by special people who are entitled to use them (such as officials and emperors). Formal attire usually wear long with long sleeves except Xuanduan.
Formal attire may include:
- Xuanduan (??): a very formal dark robe; equivalent to a Western white tie
- Shenyi (??): long long dress
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- Quju (??): a diagonal body wrapper
- Zhiju (??): straight petals
- Yuanlingshan (???), lanshan (??) or panlingpao (???): closed, round robes; mostly used for formal or academic attire
The most formal formal clothing that can be worn is the xuanduan (sometimes called yuanduan ??), consisting of dark black or dark blue outfits that run to the knee with long sleeves (often with white piping), red bottom chang , red bixi (which can have a motif and/or black eyed), an optional white belt with two white bands hanging from the side or slightly forward is called peishou (??), and long black guan . In addition, the user can bring jade long gui (?) Or wood hu (?) Tablet (used when greeting royalty). This form of clothing is mostly used in sacrificial ceremonies such as Ji Tian (??) and Ji Zu (??), etc, but is also suitable for state occasions.. The xuanduan is essentially a simplified version of court dress full of officials and nobles.
Those in religious orders wore a plain middle layer garment followed by a very ornately decorated robe or coat. The Daoists have a 'red dress' (??) made of a large cloak sewn around the edges to create long, long arms used in very formal rituals. They are often red or red with wide curves and embroidered with intricate symbols and motifs such as the eight trigrams and the Taiji yin and yang symbols. The Buddha has a cloak with gold stripes on a pink background creating a brick pattern that is wrapped around his left shoulder and secured on the right side of the body with a rope. There may be more decorations, especially for high priests.
Those in the academy or officials have different dresses (known as changfu in court suits). It varies over the centuries but they are usually a closed collared round dress on the front. The most different features are headwear that has a 'wing' attached. Only those who pass the civil exam are entitled to wear them, but the variations can be worn by ordinary scholars and lay people and even for the bridegroom at the wedding (but without a hat).
Court dress
The court dress is a dress worn on formal occasions and ceremonies before a king (such as a coronation ceremony). All clothing ensembles can consist of many layers that are complex and look very complicated. The court dress is similar to the xuanduan in the component but has additional ornaments and a complex head protector. They are often brightly colored with vermillion and blue. There are different versions of court wear worn for certain occasions.
Court dress refers to:
The practical use of court dress is now obsolete in modern times because there is no king in power in China anymore.
Specific styles
Historically, Han Chinese clothing has influenced many of the surrounding cultural costumes, such as Japanese kimono, yukata, and Vietnamese ÃÆ' o giao l? Nh. Han Chinese clothing elements have also been influenced by neighboring cultural costumes, especially by nomadic people in the north, and the culture of Central Asia to the west through the Silk Road.
Tang Dynasty
The Tang Dynasty is a golden age in Chinese history, where art, science and economy thrive. Women's clothing and personal jewelry in particular reflect the new vision of this era, which sees unprecedented trade and interaction with strange cultures and philosophies on the Chinese border. Despite continuing the clothing of his predecessors such as the Han and Sui dynasties, Tang's mode was also influenced by his cosmopolitan culture and art. Where previously Chinese women had been constrained by old Confucian codes to be wrapped tightly, hiding clothes, women's clothing in the Tang Dynasty gradually became more relaxed, slightly narrower and even more revealing. The Tang Dynasty also saw a ready acceptance and syncretization with Chinese practice, foreign cultural elements by Han Chinese. Foreign influences prevalent during Tang China include cultures from Gandhara, Turkistan, Persia and Greece. The influence of style from this culture blends into Tang style clothing without any one particular culture that has a major advantage.
Song and Yuan dynasty
Some features of the Tang Cloth brought to the Song Dynasty Like the customs of the palace. Song customs often use red for their outfits with black leather shoes and hats. The collar edges and the sleeves of all the clothes that have been excavated are decorated with string or embroidery patterns. Such clothing is adorned with patterns of peony, camellia, plum blossom, and lily, etc. Song Empress often has three to five marks like the typical jewelry on their face (two sides of the cheek, the other two on the eyebrow and one on the forehead). Although some of Song's outfits have similarities with previous dynasties, some unique characteristics separate them from others. Many Song Clothes go to Yuan and Ming. One common style of dress for women in the Song Dynasty is Beizi (??), which is usually regarded as a shirt or jacket and can be matched with Ru or Ku. There are two sizes of Beizi: the short is the length of the flap and the length means the length of the cover for the knee.
Ming Dynasty
According to Emperor Hongwu Insight ( ???? , a detailed legal account written by a court historian who recorded the daily activities of Emperor Hongwu during his reign.) Shortly after the establishment of the Ming dynasty, "on the day of Renzi in the second month of the first year of the Hongwu era (29 February 1368 AD), the Hongwu emperor stipulated that all fashion clothing and headgear should be returned to standard Tang, all citizens would collect their hair on their heads, and officials will wear Wu Sha Mao (Black Cloth Hat), round collar robes, belts, and black boots. "(" ???????? ??, ????????, ???????, ?????, ???, ??, ??? ") Efforts to restore the entire clothing system back to that way over The Tang Dynasty was a cue from the founding emperor who marked the restoration of the Han tradition and cultural identity after defeating the Yuan dynasty. However, the fashionable Mongol clothing, items and hats are still occasionally worn by early Ming royalty such as Emperor Hongwu and Zhengde.
The Ming Dynasty also brought many changes to his clothes, as did many dynasties. They implements metal buttons and transformed collars of the symmetrical type of the Song Dynasty (960-1279) into the main circular type. Compared to the Tang Dynasty costume (618-907), the proportion of upper outer garments for the lower skirts of the Ming Dynasty was significantly reversed. Because the upper outer garments are shorter and the lower garments are longer, the jacket gradually becomes longer to shorten the length of the open skirt. Young girls in the middle of the Ming Dynasty usually prefer to dress this vest. The waist waist in the Qing Dynasty was changed from the Yuan Dynasty. During the Ming Dynasty, the Confucian code and ideals were popularized and had a significant effect on clothing.
Qing Dynasty
When the Manchu established the Qing dynasty, the authorities issued a decision requiring Han Chinese men to wear Manchurian clothes and shave their hair into pigtails. Resistance to hair shaving policy is suppressed. Some Han civilian men also voluntarily adopted Manchu suits like Changshan on their own will. At the end of the Qing period, not only officials and scholars, but also many ordinary people, began wearing Manchu clothes. As a result, Ming dynasty styles were even preserved in several places in China during the Xinhai Revolution.
During the Qing dynasty, Manchu-style clothing was only necessary for official academic elites such as the Eight Badge members and Han men who served as government officials. For women's clothing, Manchu and Han clothing systems coexist. Throughout the Qing dynasty, Han women continued to wear clothes from the Ming dynasty. Both the Taoist and Buddhist monks were asked to use the line by Qing; they continue to wear their traditional hairstyles, completely shaved heads for Buddhist monks, and long hair in traditional Chinese crested for Taoist priests.
It was a Han Chinese defector who committed a massacre of people who refused to use the queue. Li Chengdong, a Han Chinese general who had served Ming but defected to Qing, ordered the troops to commit three separate massacres in Jiading city within a month, resulting in tens of thousands of deaths. The third massacre left some survivors. Three massacres in Jiading District are some of the most famous, with an estimated number of fatalities in tens or even hundreds of thousands. Jiangyin also held about 10,000 Qing troops for 83 days. When the city wall was finally broken on October 9, 1645, Qing army, led by Ming Ming defector Ming Liu Liangzuo (??), Who had been ordered to "fill the city with corpses before you holster your sword," slaughtered the whole population, 74,000 and 100,000 people.
The Han Chinese army in 1645 under General Han Hong Chengchou forced the queue on the Jiangnan people while the Han people initially paid silver to wear the queue in Fuzhou when it was first implemented.
During the Qing dynasty, Vietnamese envoys to Qing China still wore official attire in the style of the Ming dynasty. Some locals acknowledge their clothes, but the envoys receive amusement and scorn from those who do not.
Chinese Republic and modern China
Source of the article : Wikipedia
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